Ukubala iMet Gala elandelayo kuyaqhubeka, futhi kuza imininingwane yokuqala yobusuku obulungele ukushintsha ikhalenda yemfashini yamazwe ngamazwe. I-Metropolitan Museum of Art eNew York kanye ne-Costume Institute yayo baveze lokhu. Ikhodi yokugqoka: “Imfashini Ubuciko”...isiqubulo esithembisa ukuguqula izitebhisi zeMet zibe yinto efana kakhulu ne- igalari yobuciko obuphilayo.
Kunokuba nje kube yisiqubulo, ukukhetha isihloko kugcizelela ukuzibophezela kwemyuziyamu ekubekeni imfashini ezingeni elifanayo neminye imikhakha yokudala. Lo mkhosi, osebenza njenge umcimbi wokusiza abantu abaswele ukuze kuqoqwe imali ye-Costume InstituteNgakho-ke kuba umbukiso ophelele wokubuyisa umzimba ogqokile njengento yobuhle, yomlando neyezepolitiki, hhayi nje njengendaba yemikhuba edlulayo.
"Imfashini iyibuciko": ikhodi yokugqoka ecatshangwa njengombhalo we-manifesto
Isiqubulo esithi “Imfashini Ubuciko” asigcini nje ngokumema osaziwayo ukuthi bagqoke njengemidwebo edumile noma izithombe eziqoshiwe eziqashelwayo. Le nhlangano ikhuthaza ababekhona ukuthi baveza ubudlelwano babo nemfashini njengendlela yobuciko ehlanganisiweUkudlala ngezithombe, imiqulu, izinkomba zomlando, kanye nokuhlolwa kwezinto ezibonakalayo ukuguqula ukubukeka ngakunye kube umsebenzi wobuciko ngokwawo. Lo mbono uxhumeka izitayela zamasiko nezobuciko ezichaza kabusha indawo yokudala.
Ngemuva kwemithetho yokugqoka kukhona umqondo ofanayo osekela umbukiso omusha wemyuziyamu, i-"Costume Art," ohlelwe ngu-Andrew Bolton nethimba lakhe. Njengoba umgcini wezincwadi ngokwakhe echazile, inhloso iwukuthi ukugxila “ekubalulekeni komzimba ogqokile” eqoqweni le-Met, ukuxhumanisa imidwebo, izithombe eziqoshiwe nezinto ezivela ezikhathini ezahlukene nezingubo ezivela ezingobo zomlando ze-Costume Institute.
Empeleni, lokhu kusho ukuthi kukhaphethi obomvu besikwazi ukubona konke kusukela ezingutsheni ezibaziweyo ezinezilinganiso ezigqamile kuya ezingutsheni eziphefumulelwe yizinhlangano ezithile zobuciko, nokuningi. ukubukeka okunengqondo okusebenzisa umzimba njengendwangu ukulandisa izindaba zomuntu siqu, izitatimende zezombusazwe, noma ukuhlola ubuwena. Isihluthulelo ngeke nje kube ukuheha ukunaka, kodwa nokusekela inkulumo; lobu budlelwano phakathi kwemfashini nobuciko bukhumbuza imibhalo ephathelene Umlando kanye nemizwa kwezobuciko.
Isiqubulo siphinde sivule umnyango wokuthi ukutholwa kwezingcezu zemibhalo kanye nemfashini yakudalaLokhu sekuyinto eyenzeka kule gala iminyaka eminingana manje. Izivakashi zinesizathu esifanele sokubheka ezinqolobaneni zezindlu zomlando futhi zithole kabusha imiklamo edumile, ngenxa yenani layo elingokomfanekiso, manje esebenza cishe njengezinto zemyuziyamu. Ngaphezu kwalokho, eziningi zalezi zinkomba zicebisa izitayela zamanje.
Imikhiqizo ehlobene kakhulu nobuciko, njengoSchiaparelli, u-Alexander McQueen, uValentino, no-Yves Saint Laurent uqobo, iqale kahle ngobusuku lapho ingxoxo phakathi kwe-runway kanye ne-museum kulindeleke ukuthi ibonakale kakhulu kunanini ngaphambili. Ngeke kumangaze ukubona ukuqagela kwezimpawu ezifana... Ingubo kaSaint Laurent yaseMondrian noma ukuchazwa kabusha kwesimanje kwezithombe zakudala.
"Ubuciko Bezingubo": umbukiso onikeza incazelo yobusuku
Njengoba kujwayelekile, isihloko se-Met Gala sihlobene ngqo nombukiso waminyaka yonke we-Costume Institute wasentwasahlobo. Kulo nyaka, lo mbukiso unesihloko esithi "Ubuciko Bezingubo" futhi wethulwa njengomuntu obaluleke kakhulu emnyangweni ngokwenani lezingcezu., enezinto ezingaba ngu-400 ezihlanganisa imisebenzi yobuciko nezingubo.
Indlela ihlangana nxazonke Imisebenzi engu-200 evela eqoqweni leMet—imidwebo, izithombe eziqoshiwe, izinto zobumba, nezinye izinto—kanye nezingubo zomlando nezanamuhla ezingaba ngu-200Lo mbukiso usebenzisa iqoqo lezingcezu ezingaphezu kuka-33.000 zesikhungo. Umqondo uwukubuka ubuciko ngelensi yemfashini nokukhombisa ukuthi umzimba ogqokile ubukhona cishe kuwo wonke umlando wokumelwa okubonakalayo; empeleni, umbukiso uhamba wodwa. imidwebo nezinto ngezingcezu zezingubo.
Lo mbukiso uhlelwe ngezigaba eziyishumi nambili ezinikezelwe ezinhlotsheni ezahlukene zomzimba: kusukela kowakudala kuya konqunu, kusukela kokhulelwe kuya kokwaluphala, kufaka phakathi imizimba ekhubazekile kanye nekhuluphele. UBolton ugcizelele ukuthi Eziningi zalezi zinhlobo zomzimba ziye zahlukaniswa noma zacatshangelwa njengezingcono kakhulu. endabeni yobuciko nemfashini, nokuthi inhloso ukungabaza lowo mbono onqunyelwe. Eqinisweni, umbukiso ubhekisela emibhalweni ephathelene ukuhlukahluka kanye nokumelwa kwezobuciko.
Ezinye izindandatho zithembisa ukuthi zizocaca kakhulu: isibonelo, izitsha ezivela eGrisi lasendulo eziboniswa eceleni kwezingubo eziphinda noma zichaze kabusha izithunzi ezivela kuzo, noma inhlanganisela yesithombe sika-Edgar Degas esithi "Pregnant Woman" nengubo kaGeorgina Godley ka-1986, enemiqulu egoqiwe kanye nokufunda okusobala kwabesifazane.
Ukuze kuqiniswe umqondo wokuthi isivakashi siyingxenye yaleyo ndaba, ama-maniquin azokwethulwa amakhanda ensimbi acwebezelisiwe anomphetho wesibuko, umsebenzi womdwebi uSamar Hejazi, ukuze umphakathi ukwazi ukuzibona ngokoqobo ubonakaliswa embukisweni futhi uzazi—noma cha—ezindikimbeni ezimelelwe.
I-“Costume Art” izoba futhi umbukiso wokuqala we- Amagalari amasha eCondé NastIndawo engaphezu kwamamitha-skwele ayi-1,000 eduze kweGreat Hall yasemyuziyamu, eyakhiwe esitolo sangaphambilini seMet. Le ndawo entsha izovumela imfashini ukuthi ithole isisindo somzimba nesingokomfanekiso ngaphakathi kwemyuziyamu, kokubili kwababekhona emihlanganweni yemikhosi kanye nomphakathi jikelele; ukuguqulwa kwesikhala kuhlanganisa izihloko eziphathelene ukusetshenziswa kwemidiya namasiko.
Ubusuku bezinkanyezi: UBeyoncé uhola umcimbi omkhulu
Ngokuphathelene nokuthi "ubani ongubani," lo mcimbi uphinde ubeke kanjalo UBeyoncé usesicongweniLo mculi, owayengakaze anyathele ezitebhisini zeMet kusukela ngo-2016, ubuya kulokhu njengomunye wabasingathi abaphambili, ekanye noNicole Kidman, umdlali wethenisi uVenus Williams kanye nomhleli waphakade weVogue, u-Anna Wintour.
Ukukhethwa kwaleli qembu lesine kuhlanganisa umculo, amafilimu, ezemidlalo, kanye namandla okuhlela esithombeni esisodwa, okuqinisa umqondo wokuthi iMet Gala isebenza njenge indawo yokuhlangana phakathi kwemikhakha ehlukene yesiko lanamuhlaKuBeyoncé, osevele edlale ngemfashini njengesitatimende sobuciko ezikhathini eziningi, ikhodi ethi “Imfashini ubuciko” imelela ithuba elicacile lokuthatha leyo ndaba igxathu eliya phambili; indaba yakhe ixhumana nezingcezu eziphathelene imfashini namafilimu.
El Ikomidi elihlela lo mcimbi liholwa ngumklami u-Anthony Vaccarello, umqondisi wokudala we-Saint Laurent, kanye noZoë Kravitz.umlingisi kanye nomenzi wefilimu. Kuye kwamiswa ikomidi elikhulu nelihlukahlukene labasingathi, okuhlanganisa namagama anjengoSabrina Carpenter, uDoja Cat, uGwendoline Christie, u-Alex Consani, uMisty Copeland, u-Elizabeth Debicki, uLena Dunham, uPaloma Elsesser, uLISA, uChloe Malle, uSam Smith, uTeyana Taylor, uLauren Wasser, u-Anna Weyant, u-A'ja Wilson, uYseult, u-Adut Akech, u-Angela Bassett, u-Aimee Mullins, uSinéad Burke, uRebecca Hall, uTschabalala Self, u-Amy Sherald, kanye noChase Sui Wonders.
Lokhu kuhlanganiswa kwabaculi, abadlali bezemidlalo, abadlali bezemidlalo, amamodeli, abaculi ababukwayo, kanye nabantu abakhubazekile kubonisa ukuzibophezela kwesikhungo ku- ukukhombisa umbono obanzi wokuthi ubani ophakathi nendawo yemfashini namuhlaUkuba khona kukaChloe Malle, inhloko entsha yokuqukethwe eVogue e-United States, kuzophinde kuhunyushwe njengoshintsho oluyingxenye lwesizukulwane ohlelweni lokuhlela oluzungeze lo mcimbi.
Njengoba kunjalo minyaka yonke, Uhlu oluphelele lwezivakashi lugcinwa luyimfihlo kuze kube usuku lomcimbi.Lokhu kufihla, kanye nekhono lokuhumusha lekhodi ethi "Imfashini Ubuciko", kukhulisa ukuqagela ezinkundleni zokuxhumana kanye nakwezokuxhumana ezikhethekile, ikakhulukazi eYurophu, lapho lo mkhosi ulandelwa khona sengathi umdlalo wamanqamu omkhulu wezemidlalo.
Kusukela emzimbeni ophelele kuya emzimbeni wangempela: imfashini, ubuciko kanye nezombusazwe
Ngaphandle kwenkulumo-ze yabezindaba, isiphakamiso somgcini walo nyaka sigxila endaweni ethakazelisa kakhulu umphakathi waseYurophu: isibuyekezo esibucayi somqondo "womzimba ofanele" kwezobuciko nemfashiniUmbukiso kanye nemithetho yokugqoka kuxhumene ngqo nezingxoxo zanamuhla mayelana nokuhlukahluka kwemizimba, ubulili, ubudala kanye nokukhubazeka.
UBolton ukhombe ukuthi indaba ebonakalayo evelele iye yaba nelungelo amakhulu eminyaka uhlobo lomzimba oluqondile kakhulu: omncane, ojwayelekile, omncane, futhi ngokuvamile omhlopheNgokufaka imizimba yokuguga, ekhulelwe, ekhuluphele, noma ekhubazekile embukisweni, lo mbukiso uzama ukuvula imifantu kulowo mfanekiso oqinile futhi ulethe leyo ngxoxo kukhaphethi obomvu.
Ngaphambi komcimbi, lokhu kusho ukuthi abaklami banendawo... ukuhlola izindlela ezintsha zokugqoka imizimba ebezilokhu zingabonakalingaphandle kokuwela ezimfanelweni nje. Imfashini, kulo mongo, iziveza njengendawo lapho ubuchwepheshe kanye nobuciko kungahambisana nezidingo zomphakathi ezithile; ngisho nokuhumusha kabusha kwamasiko okufana ubuciko be-kimono Banikeza ulwazi mayelana nendlela yokugqoka ubuntu obuhlukahlukene.
Embonini yemfashini yaseYurophu, ejwayele ukubona izindlu zayo ezinkulu zihambela iMet—kusukela eDior kuya kuValentino, okuhlanganisa nemikhiqizo yaseSpain evame ukugqokisa izinkanyezi zamazwe ngamazwe—uhlelo lwalo nyaka luvula insimu ethakazelisayo: Indlela yokuhumusha isiko le-Haute Couture kanye nokuthunga izinto zokunethezeka kube yizicucu ezisebenza njengokuphawula okubucayi mayelana nomzimba. Le ngxoxo phakathi kwemfashini namandla ibhekisela ezingxoxweni mayelana ukunethezeka nokumelwa.
Ngokuhambisana nalokho, ikhodi ethi “Imfashini Ubuciko” ingafundwa njengesimemo sokuhumusha kabusha izithonjana zamasiko nezobuciko eziseduze nomphakathi waseYurophuKusukela ku-Italian Renaissance kuya ku-avant-garde yekhulu lama-20, kufaka phakathi izinkomba ezidumile njengefilimu, umculo, namahlaya, isihluthulelo akusikho nje ukuqaphela izinkomba, kodwa kunalokho ukuhlola ukuthi umklamo uletha kanjani into entsha kulelo fa.
I-MET Gala njengelabhorethri ebonakalayo yomhlaba wonke
I-Met Gala izibonakalise ngokwayo emashumini eminyaka amuva nje njenge-true ilebhu yemibono ebonakalayo kamuva ehlunga ibe ngamaqoqo, izinkampani zokushicilela kanye namakhaphethi abomvu emhlabeni jikeleleIkhodi yokugqoka yonyaka ngamunye isebenza cishe njengomhlangano ohlangene wabaklami, abenzi bezitayela, kanye nezindlu zemfashini, futhi u-2026 ngeke ube yinto ehlukile.
Kulo nyaka, ukugxila kwemfashini njengobuciko kubeka lo mkhosi endaweni evundile kakhulu yokuhlola: Ukufakwa okuphathekayo, izingubo ezicatshangwa njengezithombe ezithambile, ukwakheka kwezindwangu okwedlulele, kanye nokusebenzisana ngqo nabaculi besimanjeIzinto ezingavamile noma ezisetshenziswe kabusha eziphonsela inselelo umbono wakudala wokunethezeka nazo zingase zivele.
Kwabaningi osaziwayo baseYurophu abaya njalo kulo mcimbi, inselele itholakala ekutholeni ibhalansi phakathi ingozi nobuhle bomqondo lokho okulindelwe yizilaleli zakhe. Ingubo ekhangayo ayanele; kudingeka indaba ecacile, okungcono kakhulu, exhumanisa nesihloko sombukiso kanye nohambo lomuntu siqu lomuntu oyigqokile.
Kulesi simo, indima yabenzi bezitayela izoba cishe umgcini wezincwadi. Kuzodingeka Khetha, thumela, futhi uhlele ukubukeka okuhambisana nomlando wobuciko kanye nomsebenzi wabaklami.Into ethi, uma yenziwe kahle, ingaba uphawu loshintsho emisebenzini yalabo abahilelekile; yingakho abaningi bephendukela kuyo iseluleko sesitayela sobungcweti.
Ngakho-ke, i-Met Gala ezayo ibukeka sengathi ubusuku lapho umbukiso obonakalayo uzohambisana nomyalezo ojulile. Phakathi kokukhanya kwekhaphethi elibomvu, indlela yokuqapha ngokucophelela, kanye nengcindezi yabezindaba bomhlaba wonke, lo mcimbi uphinde uphakamise umbuzo othinta kokubili ngaphakathi nangaphandle kwezwe lemfashini: Izingubo zingabhekwa njengezinga elingakanani, ngaphandle kolwazi olucacile, njengohlobo lobuciko?.
