Izingubo zomdabu zasePhilippines Kuwumfanekiso ocacile womlando waleli qoqo leziqhingi kanye nokuhlukahluka kwamasiko. Leli zwe, elakhiwe iziqhingi ezingaphezu kuka-7.000, beliyikhaya lazo amaqembu ezizwe eziningi futhi uye wabhekana namakhulu eminyaka amathonya angaphandle, kusukela ekoloni yaseSpain kuya e-United States, ngaphandle kokukhohlwa ifa layo elicebile lase-Asia. Namuhla, izingubo zezwe kanye nezingubo zansuku zonke zabantu basePhilippines zixoxa indaba ethakazelisayo yabantu abahlanganise ngempumelelo owomdabu nowangaphandle, bakha ukuhlonza okubonakalayo okuyingqayizivele nokujulile.
Imfashini ePhilippines Akuyona nje umbuzo we-aesthetics, kodwa ukumelwa okuphilayo yamasiko, isimo sezulu, ukuhlukahluka komphakathi kanye nokuzigqaja ngobuzwe. Phakathi namakhulu eminyaka, Izimpahla zokugqoka zasePhilippine sezishintshile ekuphenduleni izinguquko zomlando, ezomnotho, nezenhlalo, kuyilapho njalo igcina izici ezihlukanisayo nomhlaba wonke. Kusukela ezindwangu zephayinaphu fibre kuya kumakhanda amibalabala, izingubo zasePhilippines zihlukahlukene njengabantu bakhona, futhi indima yabo emaphathini, emikhosini kanye nempilo yansuku zonke Kubalulekile ukuqonda isiko lasePhilippines ngokuphelele.
Umsuka kanye nokuvela kwezinto zokugqoka zasePhilippine
Umlando wezingubo ePhilippines Iqala kudala ngaphambi kokufika kwamakoloni. Ezikhathini zangaphambi kweSpanishi, Isizwe nombuso ngamunye wawunendlela yawo yokugqoka, enqunywa ikakhulukazi isimo sezulu esishisayo -nezinkathi ezomile nezinemvula - esasibeka ukusetshenziswa kwezindwangu ezikhanyayo nezisha, kodwa ezihlotshiswe ngobuhlalu obuyinkimbinkimbi kanye ne-tribal motifs.
amadoda Filipino ezikhathini zasendulo Babevame ukugqoka izindwangu ezikhalweni noma izikhindi, ngokuvamile bengenawo amahembe nama-tattoos ezemidlalo afanekisela amandla nesibindi njengamaqhawe. Abesifazane, ngokwengxenye yabo, babegqoke ama-blouses abizwa ngokuthi "i-baro" neziketi ezinde ezibizwa ngokuthi "patadyong" noma "saya", ngokuvamile ehambisana nobucwebe obubonisa isimo sabo senhlalo nobuhle.
Ingubo yowesilisa eyisisekelo kwakuyi bahag, uhlobo lwendwangu ekhazimulayo enombala ogqamile, kuyilapho i cana noma ihembe elingenakhola laliyidlozi lamanje I-Barong Tagalog. Umbala kwakubalulekile futhi: okubomvu kubaholi kanye nezibalo ezinesibindi, kanye nomhlophe noma omnyama kwizakhamuzi ezivamile. phuthong (isigqoko sowesilisa) kanye nezinhlobo ezahlukene zemigexo yegolide namasongo kwaqeda imvunulo yemikhosi nemikhosi.
Ezifundeni zaseVisayas, ithonya lesi-Indonesian nesiMalay lalibonakala ezingutsheni ezifana ne-"marlota" ne-"baquero", ama-tunics amade, anemibala egqamile, angenakhola. Abesifazane Abesifazane besigaba esiphakeme babegqoka izingubo zikasilika, kuyilapho labo besigaba esiphansi bekhetha imicu yamagxolo. Amakhanda nama-tattoos nawo ayevamile. incazelo ekhethekile, ukumaka isigaba sezigaba noma izimpumelelo zomuntu siqu.
Umthelela wekoloni kanye namanye amathonya
Ikoloni yaseSpain, eyathatha iminyaka engaphezu kuka-300, imakwe ngaphambili nangemuva ngemfashini yasePhilippine. AmaSpanishi ahlanganisa amasiko endawo nawaseYurophu, ethula izindwangu ezintsha, imifekethiso nezitayela. Abesifazane baqala ukusebenzisa Baro't Saya, inhlanganisela ye-blouse (ihembe) nesiketi esifinyelela phansi, nesikhafu kanye nesiketi esingaphezulu. le ngubo Yashintsha ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, yaba nemininingwane eminingi futhi yamukela imikhono emise okwevemvane ekhombisa I-Terno okwamanje
Amadoda wona amukela i- I-Barong Tagalog: ihembe elide elenziwe ngendwangu ebonisa ngale, ngokuvamile elenziwe ngephayinaphu noma ngejusi, elinemifekethiso esifubeni. Nakuba kuthiwa ngesikhathi saseSpain, abantu bomdabu kwakudingeka bayigqoke ingathululwanga ukuze babonise ukuthi abazifihli izikhali, abukho ubufakazi obuphelele bomlando obusekela le nganekwane. Funda kabanzi mayelana nemithelela yamasiko ezimpahleni.
Phakathi nenkathi yaseMelika naseJapane, Ukugqoka waqhubeka nokuzivumelanisa nezimo. I Americana (isudi yasentshonalanga) ngezinye izikhathi esikhundleni eBarong emicimbini esemthethweni, kuyilapho abesifazane bezama imfashini emisha evela eNtshonalanga, nakuba I-Terno Kwahlala kuwuphawu lobuhle nobuzwe. Iminyaka eyishumi ngayinye yekhulu lama-20 yashiya uphawu lwalo: kusukela eziketini ezibanzi zesitayela sikaMaria Clara kuya kuma-miniskirts nama-jeans amashumi eminyaka amuva nje.
Isimo sezulu esishisayo ihlale inesimo sohlobo lwezingubo: izindwangu ezilula nezikhululekile, ukugqama kwezingubo ezenziwe ngokotini, uphayinaphu, i-abaca noma ilineni, nemibala egqamile ebonisa ubungqabavu baleli qoqo leziqhingi.
Izingubo zabesifazane bendabuko: Baro't Saya kanye Terno
I-Baro't Saya Kuyiqoqo lendabuko elibalulekile labesifazane base-Filipino. Iqukethe ibhulawuzi elibizwa ngokuthi "i-baro," isiketi esibizwa ngokuthi "saya," iduku (isikhafu) esimboza amahlombe nentamo, nesiketi esingaphezulu esaziwa ngokuthi "i-tapis." Inguqulo eyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu yale ensemble yile UMaria Clara, eneziketi nemihlobiso ebanzi nakakhulu egqugquzelwe isikhathi sobukoloni baseSpain.
Ukuziphendukela kwemvelo kwaholela ekuzalweni kwe- I-Terno, ingubo eyodwa enemikhono emise okwemvemvane ehlukile. Kuthathwe njengemvunulo yesizwe, i-Terno yakhuthazwa yizikhulu zomphakathi nezombusazwe, nanamuhla Kufana nomcimbi kanye nokwehlukanisaIdizayini yayo ihlanganisa imininingwane efekethisiwe nezinto ezinhle, ezifana nephayinaphu nejusi, ikunikeza ukuba khona okuyingqayizivele ezigabeni zamazwe ngamazwe.
Namuhla, izinguqulo zesimanje ze-Baro't Saya ne-Terno zakhelwe kokubili izikhathi ezisemthethweni kanye neyunifomu yasehhovisi noma imicimbi ekhethekile. Abaklami besimanje baphinde bachaza leli fa ngenkathi beligcina IsiFilipino essenceHlola kabanzi mayelana nomlando wemvunulo yendabuko yesi-Filipino.
Izingubo Zamadoda: I-Barong Tagalog ne-Americana
I-Barong Tagalog imele umphefumulo wemfashini yamadoda ePhilippines. Ihembe elenziwe ngalo Indwangu engasindi futhi ngokuvamile ebonakala kancane, eligqokwa phezu kwehembe langaphansi lihlanganiswe nebhulukwe elimnyama. I-Barong Igqama ngokufekethiswa kwayo - esifubeni noma ihlakazeke kuyo yonke ingubo - futhi ngokwesiko yenziwa kusuka ku-piña, jusi, noma izingxube zazo zombili izindwangu. Ikhwalithi yezinto zokwakha Ngokuvamile libonisa isimo somuntu osigqokile emphakathini; ezikhetheke kakhulu zifaka ukuqedwa okuhle kanye nemininingwane ngegolide noma imicu emihle.
Kunezinhlobonhlobo ezahlukene ze I-Barong Tagalog, okuhlanganisa izinguqulo ezinemikhono emifushane (i-barong polo) nezinye okungakahleleki njenge-"gusót-mayaman," eyenziwe ngelineni futhi ethandwa yizikhulu eziphezulu nezisebenzi zikahulumeni. Ngaphezu kwalokho, phakathi nekhulu lama-20, kwavela amamodeli afana ne- "Barong Mahaba" (amade futhi anemigqa), "i-Baro Cerrada" (ikhola evaliwe), kanye ne-barong ebizwa ngokuthi "ihembe-jack", ene-cut yesimanje futhi efanelekile ehhovisi.
El Isudi yesitayela saseNtshonalanga, endaweni eyaziwa ngokuthi "i-Americana", yahlanganiswa ngokuqhubekayo kusukela esikhathini saseMelika kuya phambili, ikakhulukazi ezenzakalweni ezisemthethweni, nakuba akakaze asuswe ngokuphelele al I-Barong Tagalog, okuhlala kuyimpahla eyisibopho yemishado, amadili, amadili kanye nemikhosi kazwelonke.
Izinto kanye namasu okukhiqiza
Izindwangu ezisetshenziswa ezingutsheni zasePhilippine ziyisibonelo sangempela se ubuciko kanye nokusimamaPhakathi kwezinto ezaziswa kakhulu yi- uphayinaphu fiber, etholakala emaqabunga esitshalo kanye nokwelukwa ngesandla ukuze kuzuzwe indwangu enhle, ecwebezelayo futhi eqinile. Lokhu kwaziswa Yilona oluncanyelwayo lwe- I-Barong Tagalog okusezingeni eliphezulu kanye nezingubo ezihloselwe imikhosi emikhulu.
Ezinye izinto ezivamile zihlanganisa jusi (kusuka abaca), the uphayinaphu kasilika (inhlanganisela uphayinaphu nosilika), the sinamay (amaqhafuqhafu woven abaca), the ujusilyn futhi i organza (izindwangu zokwenziwa zesimanje). Ukusetshenziswa kwendwangu ngayinye kuyahlukahluka kuye ngesabelomali, isenzakalo, kanye nezinga lezenhlalo lomuntu oyigqokile.
I-Las amasu efekethisiwe zibaluleke njengokukhethwa kwendwangu. izimbali, ijometri noma i-motif engokomfanekiso Zenziwa ngokusebenzisa i-openwork, i-lace kanye ne-appliqués, ngokuvamile eqokomisa indawo yesifuba noma ukunwebeka kuyo yonke ingubo. I-embroidery Ayigcini nje ngokuhlobisa, kodwa futhi idlulisa imiyalezo mayelana nobuwena kanye nomlando womndeni.
Ukuhlukahluka kwezifunda kanye nezingubo zobuhlanga
IPhilippines iyizwe elinezizwe eziningi ngakho-ke, Izingubo ziyahlukahluka phakathi kwezifunda namaqembuNgaphambi kokwenziwa kwamakoloni, abantu bomdabu abahlukene babenezingubo zabo ezibahlukanisayo, futhi amaningi alawo masiko asaqhubeka nanamuhla emikhosini, emishadweni, nasemikhosini ebalulekile.
Ku I-Luzon Mountain Ranges, the Ama-Igorot Bagqoka izingubo ezilukiwe ngamaphethini ezizwe: amadoda agqoka "ama-wanes", indwangu ebomvu ehlotshisiwe, kanye nemigexo yobuhlalu kanye nemidwebo ehlukile. Abesifazane Bavame ukugqoka i-"lufid," isiketi esisongayo, futhi bangase babonakale bengenalutho esifubeni noma bembozwe ngamabhande endwangu enemininingwane.
En Ama-Visayas, ingubo evelele kunazo zonke yi Kimona, i-blouse ekhanyayo ne-translucent ngokuvamile ehlanganiswe nesiketi esibizwa ngokuthi patadyong futhi sihambisana nesikhafu "se-tubao" esibekwe ehlombe. Le nhlanganisela ilungele isimo sezulu esifudumele futhi yenza isitatimende esimangalisayo emikhosini yendawo.
Mindanao, lapho inani lamaSulumane ligcwele khona, linamasiko awo: ngokuvamile abesifazane bayagqoka hijab, izingubo ezinemikhono emide neziketi ezifika phansi, kuyilapho amadoda egqoka amahembe namabhulukwe ahambisana nezigqoko zendabuko, evumelanisa amathonya amaSulumane ezintweni zendawo.
Izingubo zesiFilipino empilweni yansuku zonke nemikhosi
Indlela abantu basePhilippines abagqoka ngayo namuhla ibonisa inhlanganisela yamagugu ekoloni, isimanjemanje, nokusebenza. Ngenxa yokushintsha kwesimo sezulu, abaningi bakhetha izikibha namajini okugqoka kwansuku zonke, kodwa ngezikhathi ezikhethekile, imvunulo yesintu aphinde aqhamuke ngamandla. Imishado, izikhumbuzo, imikhosi yezenkolo namaholide kazwelonke kuyisimo esihle sokubukisa a I-Barong Tagalog, Isudi noma izingubo zobuhlanga eziqondene nesifunda.
Emapharadesi nasemikhosini efana ne I-Sinulog noma i I-Ati-AtihanUbuciko buchichima ngemibala, amakhanda, nokufekethisiwe, okubonisa ukuhlukahluka nokunotha kwesiko lasePhilippines emhlabeni jikelele. Izimpahla zokugqoka ziba yimisebenzi yobuciko ehambayo ngesikhathi semidlalo yokuntanta egcwele izimbali noma imidanso yesintu.
Ukusetshenziswa kwezinto ezithile kanye nokwakheka kulandela iziqondiso zokuziphatha kanye nezimpawu: izingubo zikanokusho zezehlakalo ezibalulekile, nezingubo ezingajwayelekile zokugqoka kwansuku zonke. Izingubo zaseNtshonalanga zivamile ekuphileni kwansuku zonke, kodwa ukunamathisela izingubo zezwe kuyaqhubeka nokuchaza ukuthi bangobani labo abaziqhenyayo ngefa labo.
Imfashini yasePhilippine ngekhulu lama-21: ubunikazi kanye nokuqagela kwamazwe ngamazwe
Emashumini eminyaka amuva nje, imfashini yasePhilippine ithole ukuqashelwa emhlabeni jikelele. sibonga abaklami abadumile abafana no-Pitoy Moreno, u-Rajo Laurel, uMonique Lhuillier no-Michael Cinco, abalethe i-Barong Tagalog kanye ne-Terno emiqhudelwaneni yamazwe ngamazwe. Izinguqulo zesimanje Lezi amasudi zivumelanisa ukusikeka, izinto zokwakha kanye nemibala, ngokuhlonipha ifa kodwa ukujezisa imfashini yesimanje.
Emicimbini esemthethweni nezingqungquthela zamazwe ngamazwe njenge-APEC, I-Barong Tagalog igqokwe abaholi bomhlaba, ekhombisa ubunkimbinkimbi nobungqayizivele izingubo zasePhilippines. Lokhu kube nomthelela ekubekeni izwe njenge indawo yokuvakasha kanye nebhentshi kusiko lendwangu kanye nokudala. .
Izimpahla zezimpahla zasekhaya nezangaphandle nazo sezingenile emakethe yase-Philippine, nemikhiqizo efana ne-Bench, i-Penshoppe, ne-Kamiseta ehambisana nemikhiqizo yomhlaba wonke efana ne-Levi's, i-Nike, ne-Zara. Ukusetshenziswa kwemfashini Sekwenziwe intando yeningi, kodwa izingubo zendabuko uyaqhubeka nokuba nendawo yokuhlonishwa emphakathini.
