Izingubo zenkathi ephakathi nezikhali kwakungeyona imihlobiso nje: kwakubuchwepheshe obusetshenziswa emzimbeni. Phakathi kwezinqaba, imibhoshongo, nohlu, izingubo ezimakwe isimo, ezivikelekile ekushayweni nesimo sezulu, futhi zivunyelwe ukukhonjwa lapho kushisa. Kude nenkulumo ethi “amathini” angaqondakali, okokusebenza kuguqukele ekuvikelekeni nasekuhambeni.
Kulolu hambo, sigqoka kusukela kwezangaphansi kuye kwezigqoko zokuzivikela, sibuyekeza ukuthi izintokazi nezinsizwa zazijwayelana kanjani nobusika nehlobo, futhi singena endaweni yokusebenzela ukuze sakhe izingubo zesikole ngezinto zansuku zonke. Sizobona nezingcezu ezibalulekile (i-gambeson, izikhali, amapuleti), ukunakekelwa nokugcinwa, izingubo ze-Templar, ikhodi ye-chivalry, izinkomba zomlando kanye nokubuyekezwa kwamasu kwezimpi zenkathi ephakathi.
Indlela i-knight egqoke ngayo (ikhulu le-13-14)
Inqubo yaqala ngamabhulukwe, enziwe ngelineni noma ngoboya, eboshwe okhalweni ngentambo noma ibhande elincane, futhi eboshwe emadolweni. Babengagqokile impukane, ngakho-ke uma kunesidingo, kwakudingeka ukuqaqa nokwehlisa ingubo; isiko lakamuva libonisa ukwethulwa kwe "cowl" endaweni yaseTurkey, nokusetshenziswa kwayo okunengekayo ekuphangeni, okuyiqiniso elishiwo namuhla njengesixwayiso esingokomlando esingaxutshwe nalutho.
Lawa ayenamekwe ngelineni elibambayo elibambayo, uboya, noma ipayipi lesikhumba elicolekileyo, eboshwe ngezintambo ebhandeni lebhulukwe elibophayo. Angagcina ngamasoli esikhumba (asebenza njengezicathulo) noma njengama-tights, lapho izicathulo noma ama-mesh hose soles ayengezwa khona. Kusukela ezinhlobonhlobo zayo ze-chromatic kwavela "i-half-stockings" kusukela ngekhulu le-14 kuya kwele-15, umsuka wegama elithi “amasokisi”.
Ngalesi sikhathi, kwakudingeka usizo lwe-squire. Ama-leggings e-mail (okungaba ucezu olulodwa noma ukumboza kuphela ingaphambili lomlenze) kwethulwa. Ama-leggings agcwele angaba namasoli kanye nokuqiniswa kwamadolo ngendwangu ehlanganisiwe noma ama-braphones esikhumba abilisiwe ngesikhumba esibilisiwe noma izinsimbi. Ukuze isisindo singadonsi phansi, izintambo ezingaphansi kwedolo zazivamile lapho ama-braphones aqinile engasetshenziswa.
I-torso yaqala ukumbozwa ngehembe lelineni elinemikhono emide noma i-wool, futhi phezu kwayo i-gambeson: ihlanganiswe ne-tow noma i-horsehair, ihlanganiswe emigqeni eqondile, izikwele noma idayimane, ivulekile ngaphambili nangemuva ukuze ifakwe. Umsebenzi wabo wawuwujuqu ngokumelene nama-maces, izando noma ama-flails, enciphisa imithelela i-mesh eguquguqukayo engazwakala ngenye indlela. Ekhanda, ikepisi eliyisivikelo elicijile, eliboshelwe esilevini, livimbela ukubhobozwa kwenetha futhi linikeze ukucushwa okwengeziwe.
Ihembe le-chainmail (i-loriga noma ihembe lemeyili) lingaxhunywa ku-coif noma ligqokwe ngokuhlukana. Kwakuyisiqephu esisodwa esingenazo izinsimbi: sasishibilika phezu kwekhanda ngokusekelwa kwe-squire, njengoba sinesisindo esingama-20-25 kg. Imikhono ingaba mifishane, ibe yinde noma ibe nama-mittens ahlanganisiwe. (ngentende yesikhumba ukuze ibambe), iboshwe esihlakaleni ngamabhande; ngezinye izikhathi babenezimbobo zokuthi bakhiphe isandla kanye nesigaxa esilengayo. Ngokuvamile babefika ngaphansi kwedolo futhi bavule ngaphambili nangemuva ukuze bagibele.
I-almofar ifakwe kahle kakhulu, hhayi njengama-hood axegayo owabona kumamuvi. Kwakukhona ukuhlukahluka: isikwele semeshi esisikwe ngesikhumba esasiboshelwa emathempelini; ithebhu ye-mesh enemigqa yesikhumba eboshwe ohlangothini olulodwa; izixazululo nge-burelete (indandatho ehlanganisiwe) yezigqoko ezigqokile ngaphandle kwebutho; amakepisi ahlomile ane-burelete ehlanganisiwe nokuvikelwa kwentamo; ngisho nezicucu zivuleka ngemuva futhi zivalwe nge-drawstring ukuze kulungiswe kahle. Isihluthulelo kwakuwukulingana ncamashi ngaphansi kwezigqoko ezihlukene.
Ngaphezu kwakho konke lokhu, kusukela maphakathi nekhulu le-13, i-mail plate yanezelwa: i-surcoat enezinsimbi zensimbi ezifakwe ngaphakathi (cishe 9-10 kg). Yayilungiswa ngebhande langemuva nebhande langaphambili. Ngenhla wayegqoke ijazi lezikhali, "i-textile banner" ye-knight, enezimpawu ze-heraldic ezibonakalayo ekulweni.
Ngaphezu kwakho konke: izinkuko noma izinkandi, inkemba enebhande, isihlangu, nesigqoko sokuzivikela. Iqoqo lonke lingaba nesisindo esingaphezu kuka-30 kg, kanye nesigqoko sokuzivikela esingu-2 kg, izikhali, nokuzivikela. Noma kunjalo, inganekwane yokunganyakazi iwukuthi: inganekwane: ukuqeqeshwa kusukela ebuntwaneni nasekuqeqeshweni kwansuku zonke Kwabenza bashesha futhi bamelana namamashi, ukushisa, amakhaza nokulwa.
Izingcezu zokuzivikela kanye nokuvela kwazo
Amahembe esikhumba aqinile kanye nezingubo zazivikela umzimba; ama-bracers angengezwa. Zazilula futhi zihamba, kodwa zinikeza ukuzivikela okuncane ekulweni okuseduze. Isetshenziswa kabanzi ngabacibishelayo ngokubeka phambili ukuhambahamba emsebenzini wabo.
I-cuirass yempande yase-Iberia inomklamo ongunxantathu onamadiski amathathu esifubeni nasemhlane, aqiniswe ngamabhande amane emzimbeni. Kwakuyisisekelo: kwashiya izindawo ezibucayi (intamo, izingalo, imilenze) obala. Ngekhulu le-14 lanwetshwa ngezikhwama, izinsimbi zamahlombe, ama-ristre, ama-codale, namabhande asengalo., ama-gauntlets; emilenzeni, onogada emathangeni, onogada bamadolo, ama-greaves, namabhuzu ezinyawo.
I-lorica segmentata (indlalifa yaseRoma) yayinamabhendi ensimbi avundlile ahlanganisa i-torso enezivikelo emahlombe: ilula futhi ishesha, kodwa inezikhala ezisebenzisekayo phakathi kwamapuleti nokuvikelwa okuncane kwamaphethelo. Ukusebenza kokuqondisa okusheshayo, nokulinganiselwa kwakho.
I-loriga noma i-brunia (izikali zensimbi ezihlanganiswe namasongo, anezikhala noma izinzipho) zanikeza ukumbozwa okukhulu, futhi inguqulo yayo ye-jacerina/chain mail (amasongo amancane axhumene ububanzi, ngezinye izikhathi esisekelweni sesikhumba esinamadiski) yandisa ukuvikeleka okuphelele ngama-brafoneras emilenze nezinyawo. Kunzima kakhulu ukugqobhoza, nakuba kubiza futhi kunzima (cishe 11-25 kg kuye ngokuthi ukuhlanganisa nokunwetshwa).
Ihhanisi lepuleti eligcwele, "izikhali ezimhlophe," linikeze izikhali ezisezingeni eliphezulu ezinezicucu zensimbi ezishiwo ngamabhande nama-rivets, ngokuvamile ezigqokwa phezu kwe-chain mail. Izinzuzo: ukumbozwa kanye nokumelana nomthelela kanye nama-projectiles. Ukungalungi: intengo ephezulu, ubunzima ekufakeni, nesisindo (ngezinye izikhathi sisondele ku-40 kg). Ihhashi nalo lalivikelwe ngocingo lwesikhumba kuqala, bese kuba anezikhala nensimbi.
Ukugcinwa nokunakekelwa kwemishini
Isikhumba (amabhande, amabhande) sasigcotshwe ngamafutha ezilwane futhi sivunyelwe ukumunca, bese somile siphucuziwe. Insimbi kwakudingeka igcinwe kude namanzi Ukuze uvimbele ukugqwala, yayihlanzwa ngesihlabathi futhi yomiswa ngendwangu; khona-ke ifilimu yamafutha yavikela phezulu.
Izingubo ngaphansi kwezikhali kanye nama-surcoats
Isisekelo se-knight kwakuyi-gipoun (i-cassock emfushane) enevest yelineni kanye nebhulukwe langaphansi, ingubo ebambayo ukuze kuvinjelwe ukuhushulwa. Phezu kwalokhu kwakukhona i-gambeson (ilineni, uvolo, noma isikhumba, ngezinye izikhathi esinezingxenye ezinezikhala ezithungelwe) ezazifinyelela emadolweni. Izendlalelo zikugcina ufudumele futhi zikuvikela emvuleni.Abampofu kakhulu baphendukela ku-fustian (indwangu ewugqinsi).
Ijazi (ijazi elide elinejazi lezikhali) lalivumela umuntu ukuba ahlukanise abangane ezitheni. Ngokuvamile lalivulwa ezansi ngezizathu ezingokoqobo. Emilenzeni, ama-tights we-wool aqinile; izicathulo, ezenziwe ngesikhumba, ezinokuthambekela ezicathulweni ezicijile.
Amabhulukwe elineni aboshwe okhalweni nasemadolweni, ngaphandle kwempukane. Phezu kwabo, amabhulukwe esikhumba amahle noma ilineni (ngokukhethwa kwezinyawo zesikhumba). Ngaphandle, ama-mesh breeches anama-brafoneras avikela umzimba ophansi. Isandla sasifakwe ama-mittens noma ama-gauntlets; lapho inetha lihlanganisa igilavu, intende yesikhumba yayisiza ngokubamba.
Ekhanda, i-cap yendwangu ehlanganisiwe ngaphansi kwesigqoko sokuzivikela, eboshwe ngezibopho ngaphansi kwesilevu. Isigqoko sokuzivikela (isigqoko esilula) futhi, kamuva, i-helmet ene-visor. Phakathi nekhulu le-14, i-plate harness yalungisa ubuthakathaka be-chain mail by izingcezu ezihambisanayo: isivikelo sesifuba, i-backplate, i-Guardrail kanye ne-neck gorget.
Ezinye izakhi ezivamile zihlanganisa isihlangu sokhuni, sesikhumba, noma sensimbi; intambo yoboya noma kasilika phezu kwehhanisi; igceke (ijazi elifushane elingenamikhono) elinezifanekiselo; amabhulukwe ahlanganisiwe ngaphansi kwezivikelo; isiketi sangaphakathi; ihood yendwangu; indwangu noma ibhande lesikhumba lokubamba izingcezu nokuthwala inkemba nensangu; ibhande njengebhejiSingeze isithenjwa esiwusizo se-PDF lapha ukuze uthole eminye imininingwane yobuchwepheshe: bheka lo mbhalo.
Izintokazi, isimo sezulu nemfashini: kusuka kokupholile kuya kokubandayo
Isimo sezulu sasibusa isigqi nezingubo zezolimo. Ngaphandle kokushisisa noma izindwangu zobuchwepheshe, izingubo “zaziwumugqa wokuqala” ngokumelene nomoya, imvula, nokubanda. I-High Middle Ages yaba nesimo sezulu esikahle ngobusika obupholile kancane (ikhulu le-10 ukuya kwele-14), into ethinte izitshalo namaphethini wezingubo.
Izingubo kanye nezinto zokwakha ezibalulekile
Ingubo yowesifazane eyisisekelo kwakuyihembe langaphansi (e elenziwe ngelineni), elinengubo eyodwa noma ngaphezulu yangaphandle kuye ngokuthi isimo kanye nesenzakalo, kanye nebhande le-utilitarian. Izigqoko ezinjengamakepisi namaveyili avikelekile futhi abonisa isimo somshado (izinwele zazimbozwe kwabesifazane abashadile). Uvolo kwakuyindlovukazi yekhabethe laseYurophu Okokuxosha ukufudumala namanzi, ilineni, epholile futhi emunceyo, izingubo zangaphansi ezibusayo. Usilika nezindwangu ezinhle kwakuyizinto zokunethezeka ezigciniwe; amajazi afakwe uboya ezindaweni ezibandayo.
Izendlalelo nokusikeka ukuze kufane
Ukwendlalela kuvunyelwe ukulungisa kahle ukufakwa kwe-insulation: ilineni eduze kwesikhumba, izingubo zoboya ngaphezulu, nejazi lapho kufanele. Umoya ovaleleke phakathi kwezendlalelo uyagqumisa, isimiso esisasebenza. Esimeni sezulu esishisayo, ukusikeka okuxekethile kwelineni elingasindi kwakuhlinzeka komoya; emakhazeni, izingubo zoboya eziqinile zazigcina ukushisa.
Imikhono namakhanda
Imikhono yayisukela emifushane iye kwemide kakhulu, imikhono elengayo, lena yokugcina kokubili njengendawo yokuhlala yesikhashana nanjengophawu lwesimo (esingafaneleki ukusebenza). Amaveyili namakepisi avikelwe elangeni nasemoyeni; enyakatho, izigqoko ezinomugqa nezinoboya zazigqokwa lapho kuhanjwa; bekukhona okuhlukile kwesifunda (Izigqoko zaseNtaliyane, ama-hennins aseFrance, amakepisi “amaphiko” eBritish Isles).
Amakapa, amajazi nezicathulo
Izingubo ezilula zoboya obucolekileyo noma usilika ezindaweni ezipholile; amajazi asindayo anendwangu noma isikhumba ngaphandle kanye nempungushe, i-marten, noma i-ermine lining enyakatho. Izigqoko ezikhiphekayo zengeza isivikelo ekhanda nasentanyeni. Izicathulo zesikhumba zazingangenwa amanzi ngamafutha kanye nokushuka; kuma-mudflats, ama-clogs okhuni ("sabots" noma "klompen") anesikhumba noma indwangu yendwangu. Amasokisi kavolo nama-leggings aphakama ngaphezu kwedolo; i-chaussen (ibhulukwe) inikeze imfudumalo futhi ivimbele ukuchacha ngesikhathi ugibele.
Izinkathi zonyaka, izifunda kanye nokweqisa
Ehlobo, ukusikeka kwelineni ne-airy, imibala ekhanyayo, nemininingwane efana ne-zaddeln (imicu yokuhlobisa ebuye inikeze umoya omncane) yayibusa. Lapho kufika ubusika, uboya obuminyene, ulwelwesi, nokunqunywa koboya kwakubusa; ama-muffs esikhumba Bavikela izandla. Ogwini, kwakugqokwa izindwangu ezilukwe ngokuqinile ezigcotshwe ngamafutha noma ingcina ukuze zivikeleke ku-saltpeter, nama-balaclava abambayo. Phakathi ne "Little Ice Age" (kusukela cishe ngo-1300), ukwahlukanisa kwaqina; ngezikhathi ezifudumele, ama-linens amahle kakhulu ngisho nama-parasols ethonya lasempumalanga abonakala.
Ukuhweba, ubuchwepheshe kanye nefa
Izinhlangano nabathengisi basakaza amasu nezindwangu: ama-mordants emibala ehlala isikhathi eside, imizila eletha usilika, nezindwangu zakudala ezingangeni manzi. Isondo eliphothayo (ikhulu le-13) lalisheshisa ukuphotha, futhi ligcwalise uvolo ohlangene, okwenza lingangenwa umoya. Isimiso sokugqoka ngezingqimba, ehlanganisiwe ngaleso sikhathi, ihlala ingumthetho wegolide wezingubo zangaphandle zanamuhla; uboya (namuhla i-merino) nelineni zihlala emfashini.
I-workshop ye-Express ekilasini: izingubo zasendulo ezinezikhwama
Uma usebenza ngetimu yenqaba ekilasini, ukuhlobisa indawo yokungena njengenqaba futhi uyiqede ngephathi yenkathi ephakathi kuwuhlelo oluhle kakhulu. Ngezikhwama zikadoti kanye ne-tape kagesi, ungenza izingubo ezimibalabala ngemizuzu. Qaphela lapho uthenga izikhwama: gwema lezo ezinemibhalo ephrintiwe. (ezivela esuphamakethe zingcono kakhulu); futhi uma ukwazi, engeza itende lezingane elimise okwenqaba ukuze uvuse umcabango wazo (zivela e-Ikea nasezitolo zamasekeni).
Imvunulo yentokazi yenkathi ephakathi (isikhwama esiphuzi, iribhoni kanye ne-glitter):
- Songa phakathi bese uvula intamo yesikwele engaba ngu-6,5 cm; Sika i-armhole ngo-15-16 cm.
- Hlobisa ngeribhoni entanyeni, imichilo emibili ebheke phansi, ibhande elisezingeni okhalweni, ubeke ama-rhinestones lapho umugqa wentamo uhlangana khona. Bheka i-symmetry nokulingana okuhle.
Isudi kaGentleman (isikhwama esiluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka kanye neribhoni):
- Songa bese usika umugqa wentamo oyindilinga onesilinganiso esingu-6,5 x 6,5 cm nembobo yengalo ibe ngu-15-16 cm.
- Yenza isiphambano ngemicu emine yetheyiphu ebomvu; lungisa isiphambano sibheke phansi etafuleni (uhlangothi olunamathelayo lubheke phezulu) ukuze ukwazi ukuqeda futhi usike noma yikuphi okweqile.
- Namathisela isiphambano esigxile entanyeni, usike phansi ngokusikeka kwesikwele, engeza ibhande eliluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka okhalweni, bese uqedela intamo ngezingcezu ezincane zeribhoni. Isebenza kahle kakhulu emdlalweni ongokomfanekiso..
Ithempeli, ikhodi kanye knight edume
Izingubo ze-Templar zazihlanganisa ihembe, amabhulukwe, ijazi elinezimpaphe ngaphambili nangemuva, kanye nejazi lezingalo. "I-drapier" yayinomsebenzi wokugqoka nokuzilungisa: izinwele ezimfushane, intshebe ehlanzekile kanye nezingubo ezijwayelekile zoMyalelo. Isiyalo sisuka kumuntu siqu siye kowamasosha.
Okubizwa ngokuthi "ikhodi yenkathi ephakathi" yayihlanganisa imithetho yokuziphatha kwe-chivalric emphakathini nempi: udumo, ukuvikelwa kwababuthakathaka, ukwethembeka, ukulinganisela. Okuningi okuwumhlahlandlela wokuziphatha kunomthetho oqinile, setha izimiso ezikhuthaza imilando kanye izingoma zenkathi ephakathi.
Kwabaningi ababhali bezikhathi zakudala, iqhawe elikhulu kwakunguWilliam Marshal, owahloma ngo-1116 ngokwesiko lakamuva, umpetha womqhudelwano iminyaka engu-16 nokuthunjwa okungaphezu kuka-500, futhi ekugcineni wafakwa eThempelini, lapho angcwatshwa khona eLondon. Udumo lwakhe lwamtholela isicoco sokuba “iqhawe elikhulu” emilonyeni yabashumayeli abasezikhundleni eziphezulu.
Impi yenkathi ephakathi kuma-brushstrokes
Impi yayimayelana namasu kanye nemisipha. Amaqhinga afana "nodonga lwesihlangu" ahlanganisa ndawonye izivikelo zeselula zokuxosha okuhlanganisiwe nokuhlasela. Ukuvinjezelwa kwakuyisinkwa semihla ngemihla: zungeza, unqamule izinsiza kanye nezindonga ze-batter ngama-trebuchets nezinqama zokushaya kuze kunqamuke ukumelana.
Izikhali zazihlanganisa izinkemba (eside njengesithonjana), imikhonto, izimbazo, nezinsimbi, ezineminsalo neminsalo enikeza ububanzi namandla. Okwakamuva, okunembe kakhudlwana futhi okulula ukukuqonda, kwaduma kakhulu ngokuhamba kwesikhathi. Ukuvikelwa kwabeka leli qhinga: I-mesh eguquguqukayo kanye namapuleti ahlome kakhulu kodwa asindayo asho isigqi nezindima ekulweni.
Inyuvesi, isiko nomphakathi
Umhlaba wolwazi wakhula eduze kwezindlu zezindela nezindela, ezinezisekelo ezifana ne-Oxford neCambridge. Isayensi yaqondwa ngomqondo ongokomoya, futhi iScholasticism yahlanganisa uPlato no-Aristotle emcabangweni wobuKristu. Imfundo yayinokuchemaAbesifazane bafundiswe ukufunda nokubhala, nakuba abaningi bagcina sebegxile emisebenzini yezandla efana nokufekethisa. EJalimane, isikhundla sabo samasiko sasiphawuleka ngokukhethekile.
Kwakuyinkathi ye-feudalism kanye nemfashini evame ukuncishiswa izimpi, nakuba amafomu avela eNkathini Ephakathi asasekhona. Imikhiqizo yesimanje efana neDolce & Gabbana Bahlenge imigqa yenkathi ephakathi, i-embroidery nama-silhouette, bazivumelanisa nokuthandwa kwamanje.
Imibuzo ebuzwa njalo
1) Ingabe bonke amasosha ayengamaqhawe? Cha. Izicukuthwane zamahhashi zaziyidlanzana; iningi bekungamasosha ahamba ngezinyawo nabacibishelayo, benemisebenzi nemishini ehlukene.
2) Ingabe amaqhawe ayehlala elwa egibele amahhashi? Kwakungabagibeli abangochwepheshe, kodwa uma isimo sidinga lokho, babelwa ngezinyawo. Yehla futhi uhlanganyele ekulweni okuseduze Kwakuvamile ezigabeni ezithile.
3) Benesisindo esingakanani impahla yakho? Ihembe elijwayelekile le-chainmail linesisindo esingama-20-25 kg; izikhali zamapuleti zingafinyelela ku-40 kg. Lokhu kwakuhlanganisa isigqoko, isihlangu, nezikhali. Ukuzilungiselela ngokomzimba kwanxephezela umthwalo omningi.
4) Ingabe ayekhona amaqhawe abesifazane? Babeyingcosana, kodwa babekhona. Isibonelo esidume kakhulu nguJoan wase-Arc, umuntu obalulekile eMpini Yeminyaka Eyikhulu.
5) Kwenzekani uma knight ethunjwa? Ukuphila kwabo kwakuvame ukuhlonishwa ukuze bafune isihlengo noma bashintshisane, umkhuba ovamile ekukhulumeni kwezempi kwenkathi ephakathi. Isimo sibe nomthelela wokwelashwa.
Ukubheka iNkathi Ephakathi ngezingubo zayo ukubona kancane ubuchwepheshe bomzimba: izingqimba ezinikeza ukufudumala nokukhuluma ngeklasi, izindwangu ezisabela esimweni sezulu, kanye nezikhali eziphendulela iqhawe libe yinqaba ehambayo. Phakathi kwamabhulukwe, ama-tight, ama-gambeson, ama-meshes namapuleti, izingubo zazihlanganisa ubunikazi, amaqhinga, ukholo nemisebenzi yezandla, zishiya ifa elisakhuthaza izazi-mlando, abaklami nabafundisi namuhla.
