Izingubo zendabuko zaseJalisco ziyingxenye ebalulekile ye izingubo zaseMexico futhi, ngesigqi se-embroidery nomculo we-mariachi, ihlala nawe ingunaphakade. Charros, skirmishes neziketi ezinyakazayo Ngokwesigqi sezingoma, baxoxa indaba yamakhulu eminyaka, eyakhiwe phakathi kwabantu bomdabu, ithonya laseSpain, nokuzigqaja kwaseGuadalajara.
Kule migqa uzothola umhlahlandlela ophelele ohlanganisa imvelaphi, ukuziphendukela kwemvelo, izingubo ezibalulekile, kanye nokusetshenziswa kwamaholide kwalesi sambatho. Sihlanganisa yonke into ebalulekile: umlando, izingcezu zabesifazane nabesilisa, imithetho yesudi ye-charro, umculo nemikhosi, ngaphezu kwamasu obuciko okwenza kube nokwenzeka. Futhi yebo, kukhona futhi amanye ama-nuances amasiko okufanele uwakhumbule.
Umlando kanye nezimpande zezingubo ze-Jalisco
Esikhathini eside ngaphambi kokufika kwamaSpanishi, abantu base-pre-Columbian ababehlala kule ndawo—njengabanye. Ama-Tecuex nama-Caxcanes—base bembethe izingubo ezikhuluma ngendawo ebazungezile nemikhuba yabo. Basebenzisa izindwangu ezinemicu yendawo kanye nemiklamo exhumene nemvelo, enemisebenzi engokoqobo neyemikhosi.
Ukunqotshwa kwekhulu le-16 kwaphawula inguquko. Imfashini yaseYurophu namasu angena engxoxweni nemisebenzi yezandla yomdabu, okuholela esitayelani esiyingqayizivele esivumelana nesimo sezulu, impilo yansuku zonke, nemikhosi yendawo. Izindwangu ezintsha, amaphethini ahlukene, kanye nokufekethiswa okuyinkimbinkimbi ngokwengeziwe kwaqala ukwakheka, okuchaza isitembu esibonakalayo se-Jalisco.
Le miksi iyona echaza umoya wesudi: umbala, ubuhle kanye nezimpawu Zihlala ngokulingana. Akuwona nje ubuhle; kungubunikazi. Yonke imithungo, yonke iribhoni, nayo yonke imihlobiso iyasitshela ukuthi sivelaphi nokuthi kungani siqhubeka siyigubha namuhla.
Kukhona inothi lomlando elinelukuluku elisiza ukulihlaka: igama lombuso livela egameni lesiNahuatl Xalisco (“on the sand”), futhi ihlotshaniswa nezindawo zokuhlala zasendulo isiko elizibeka cishe ngo-618 AD ngamathonya eToltec. Lesi sifunda saba, ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, indawo okwazalelwa kuyo ama-charros, ama-jaripeos, ama-palenques, ama-mariachi kanye ne-tequila, izithonjana ezikhona namuhla. Izimpawu zaseMexico kanye nomkhiqizo womhlaba wonke ovela eMexico.
Qhathanisa ingubo yakho lapha
Esimeni sanamuhla, imvunulo yesintu iphila ngenxa yokubonga emiphakathini eyakhayo, egqokayo, futhi efundisa izizukulwane ezintsha. Amagugu awagcinwa embukisweni; kuyasina, kuyaculwa, kugqokiswe. ezigcawini, ezikoleni nasezigabeni kuso sonke isifunda.
Imvunulo yabesifazane e-Jalisco kanye ne-skirmish
Isambatho esivame kakhulu sowesifazane esivela ku-Jalisco siqukethe isiketi esibanzi ngobe (iqinile, ilula, futhi idonsa kahle), umbala wayo ohluka ngokuya ngeqembu noma i-ballet. Ukugcwala kwesiketi akuyona into efiselekayo: uma iphenduka izingoma zeJalisco, akha amagagasi amangalisayo ezihambisana nomculo.
Phezulu kunebhibhi eline unxantathu ohlanekezelwe i-Holland, ehlotshiswe ngamaribhoni anemibala. Ngaphansi kwengubo kukhona i-frill yesibili, cishe 35 amasentimitha ububanzi, egqoke imigqa yama-slats afanayo futhi aqede ngayo gingqa (i-lace). Kuye ngeqembu, kungase kube ucezu olulodwa noma kuhlanganisa i-blouse nesiketi.
Ikhanda lezinwele nalo liyabala: izinwele zigugile eluka futhi ehlotshiswe ngamaribhoni ithoni efanayo neyengubo. Amacici amakhulu futhi imigexo elengeza ukucwebezela esiteji. Ekuzimonyoni, izithunzi ezimibalabala nezindebe ezibomvu zisiza ukuchaza izici ngaphansi kokukhanya.
Imithetho yesiko ezinyaweni: isicathulo sesikhumba esimnyama nesithende, ilungele ukudansa kampompi ngaphandle kokulahlekelwa ukuzinza. Lesi sicathulo simelana ne-hurly-burly ye-rehearsal kanye ne-brio yasesiteji.
Kukhona abengeza i itshali, Leyo canvasi ende futhi eguquguqukayo emboza amahlombe futhi ithuthukise isibaloYize ingabalulekile ngaso sonke isikhathi, uma ibonakala ingeza ubuhle futhi ivuma ngekhanda isiko elide lendwangu yaseMexico.
Uma sikhuluma ngabesifazane kanye ne-Jalisco, sekuyisikhathi sokusho ukuklwebhana, isiyalo sabesifazane se-charrería. Imvunulo yakhe ewubukhazikhazi ihlanganisa iziketi ezinde, ezigcwele namabhulawuzi kanokusho nesigqoko esihlotshiswe ngawo. izimbali namaribhoni. Lapha ibhalansi, ukunemba kanye nobuhle kuyahlangana: igxathu ngalinye eligibele ihhashi libonisa ukuthi ubufazi kanye nekhono lamahhashi. hambani nibambene.
I-Guadalajara: izitayela namathonya
Enhloko-dolobha, iGuadalajara, uthando lwemvunulo ye-charro luhlangana emikhosini nasemibukisweni enamanye amathonya athandwayo. Okubizwa ngokuthi "i-china poblana costume" -yobuhle obumangalisayo nodumo lwesizwe - ingabonakala emibhalweni yezamasiko nemibukiso, ekhombisa leyo mpambano yemikhosi ekhombisa idolobha, lapho isiko nesimanjemanje. baxhawulane.
I-charro suit: imithetho, izingcezu kanye nokuziphatha
I-charro suit ayiyona imvunulo; iyunifomu yamasiko enemithetho ecacile. I-Mexican Federation of Charrería Isungula umthethonqubo ochaza izingcezu zengubo, amahhanisi esihlalo kanye nenhlonipho yomsebenzi, isigamu-gala, i-gala, i-gala enkulu kanye ne-etiquette.
Phakathi kwemithetho ejwayelekile kukhona ukuvinjelwa okuningana: isudi ayikwazi ukuguqulwa, ungayigqoki isigamu, noma uyihlanganise nezingubo zokuphola njenge izicathulo zethenisi noma amakepisi. Imibala egqame ngokweqile iphinde ikhawulelwe ezigabeni ezithile, igcina iphalethi epholile ehlonipha isiko.
Imvunulo yesilisa—isisekelo sengubo ye-mariachi ne-charro-inomlando wayo engutsheni yezisebenzi zasepulazini kanye ne-hacienda zekhulu le-17 nele-18 ( Chinacos). Ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, yashintsha yaba yiqoqo elihle, elinemininingwane, neliyinkimbinkimbi esilaziyo namuhla.
- Isigqoko sika-Charro
Ingumqhele wesethi: unompheme obanzi, nokufika kokufika amatshe amane, eyenziwe ngemizwa, uboya noma intende yesundu. Ihlotshiswe nge i-calabrote shawl, umluko namabheji, ahlanganiswe nesudi yonke.
La ijakhethi, ithafa, ingenziwa ngendwangu, i-serge, i-suede noma i-cashmere; ngokuvamile ine-embroidery kanye ne-brooches eyodwa kuya kwezintathu esifubeni esenziwe ngophondo, ithambo, i-suede noma isiliva. i-waistcoat Kuyinto yokuzikhethela, kodwa uma igqoke, ijazi lihlala lihamba phezulu, lihlonipha umugqa we-classic.
- Ihembe elinemikhono emide
Amathoni amhlophe noma angathí sina, anama-cuffs asetshenziswe kahle futhi ikhola yomphakathi noma yezempi. Yengeza ukuthobeka futhi ilinganise ukubaluleka kwejazi kanye ne-tie.
- Amabhulukwe nama-chaps
Amabhulukwe enziwe i-charro cut, engenalutho, enemibala evumelekile futhi engenawo amaphakethe angemuva. Emncintiswaneni, bayengezwa ama-chaparreras, okungaba sobala noma kufekethisiwe, kunikeze isivikelo nokupakishwa.
- I-bow tie ne-cummerbund
Ithayi iboshiwe butterfly isitayela futhi ibhande ( elenziwe ngendwangu, i-suede, noma isikhumba) lifika ngamathoni ahlakaniphile. Lawa ma-accents amabili agcina ibhalansi ebonakalayo ye-ensemble.
- Amabhuzu, ibhande nama-spurs
Amabhuzu anawo phakamisa isithende nozwane oluyindilinga. Amukelwa ngensundu, iwayini, i-bay, empunga kanye nezinhlobonhlobo zawo. Ibhande lingenziwa ngesikhumba, ukotini, isikhumba sengulube noma i-ixtle, nge ibhande lesitayela se-charro. I-Spurs, kokubili i-spike nesondo, iyanconywa ukuthi ibekwe phezu isithende sebhuthi futhi hhayi esithendeni.
Ngokuhambisana kukhona i i-charro suit kwabesifazane, abanezigaba ezithile (i-faena, i-media gala, i-gala, i-grand gala ne-etiquette). Kuhlanganisa isiketi, amacici kanye ne-shawl, futhi ilawulwa imithetho yayo yombala, i-embroidery nesitayela, igcina ukuhambisana kobuhle ne-ensemble yesilisa.
Ngaphandle kwemithetho yesimanje, isithombe se-charro sibonwa yiyo ijakhethi emfushane, efakiwe, isigqoko esikhulu kanye nebhulukwe elimpintshayo izinkinobho kanye efekethisiwe eduze kwemithungo nemikhono. Ngokuqondene namathoni, isiko libiza iphalethi epholile, enemibala ensundu noma emnyama ethatha indawo emaphakathi.
Ngokudlalwa kwe-mariachi, le mvunulo iba isithonjana somhlaba wonke: isigqoko esibanzi, ibhantshi eliwubukhazikhazi, amabhulukwe ampintshayo namabhuzuUmphumela uhlaba umxhwele njengoba ungenasici, uphawu olungenakuphikiswa lwe-Jalisco ngaphakathi nangaphandle kweMexico.
Imikhosi, umculo kanye nokulondolozwa kwesiko
Imvunulo yesintu ngempela ihlala phandle emgwaqeni nasesiteji. Emikhosini efana ne Ukuzimela kweMexico noma i Usuku LwenguqukoImvunulo ikhonjiswa kuma-parade, imidanso, nemikhosi. Zibuye zigqokwe emikhosini yesintu kanye nezethulo zesikole, lapho isiko lifundwa futhi kwabelwana ngalo.
Idethi eyinhloko ekhalendeni yi- Ukuhamba kweNcasakazi yaseZapopanIzinkulungwane zabantu ziphelezela lesi sithombe emigwaqweni, futhi abaningi bakhetha ukugqoka imvunulo yesintu kulo dwendwe. Kuyisenzo sokuzinikela kanye nokuba semphakathini.
I-soundtrack, yebo, inikezwa ngu mariachiYamukelwa yi-UNESCO njengeGugu Lesiko Lobuntu Elingaphatheki, iqoqo layo lakudala lihlanganisa izingcezu ezifana Isiraphu ye-Tapatío, Umsindo womfazi omnyama y Inyoka, ohlaka lomdanso futhi lugqamise ukunyakaziswa kweziketi nomoya we-charro.
Eqenjini le-mariachi lendabuko sithola izinsimbi ezifana isiginci, isiginci, icilongo, ihabhu, i-vihuela ne-violinInhlanganisela yezintambo nethusi ivumela ukudlala okunesigqi nokunomculo okujabulisa izethameli ngendlela ejabulisa izethameli.
Ngemuva kwayo yonke impahla kukhona izandla ezingochwepheshe. Ukwenziwa kwengubo kuhilela uchungechunge lolwazi oludluliswayo. ezizukulwaneni ngezizukulwane: ukwenza iphethini, ukusika, amasu okufekethisa, nokukhetha impahla. Izindwangu kufanele zibe zezinga eliphezulu neziqinile—i-poplin, i-twill, i-suede, i-cashmere, indwangu ebanzi—ngoba ukusetshenziswa kwesiteji kudinga ukuqina.
Imicu ye-Embroidery ngokuvamile incane futhi imibala ecacile, ekwazi ukudweba ama-fretwork, izimbali, nemifanekiso engagcini nje ngokuhlobisa kodwa exoxa nezindaba zendawo. Ishabhu ngayinye ishiya uphawu lwayo, yingakho ukuba khona kwezitayela ezibonakalayo ngeqembu noma isifunda.
Lokhu kuqhubeka kunakekelwa ngo ama-workshops nezikole Amakilasi akhethekile afundisa indlela yokufekethisa nokuhlanganisa izingcezu zemvunulo. Kokubili ukuqeqeshwa kanye nesisekelo samasiko: kuqinisekisa ukuthi abantu abasha bayakuqonda futhi bayakwazisa lokho abakugqokayo esiteji.
Iphromoshini ayifushane: kukhona imibukiso, ama-parade nemicimbi eziletha lezi zingubo emphakathini jikelele. Lapho izivakashi nabantu bendawo bema ukuze babuke, bashaye ihlombe, futhi bathwebule, umjikelezo uphelile: ukuziqhenya kwendawo nokusekelwa kwezomnotho kwabadwebi.
Izindlu eziningi namaqembu akumema ukuthi "uzame" isiko ngamaqoqo angokwezifiso namakhomishini. Ukukhetha imvunulo yendabuko enhle -noma ucezu oluthile olufana ne-sash noma shawl-iyindlela eqondile yokusekela umsebenzi wezandla nokuqhubeka ukuwuhambisa emhlabeni jikelele.
Ekugcineni, yonke le ndawo yonke yezindwangu nokuluka isebenza njengenkumbulo enyakazayo. I-Identity iyathungwa, iyadansa futhi iyaculwa, futhi i-Jalisco ikwazile ukuguqula ikhabethe layo libe incwadi yomhlaba wonke yesingeniso ngaphandle kokulahlekelwa umbono wemininingwane elenza libe yiqiniso.
Noma ubani osondela izingubo zeJalisco uthola isiko eliphilayo lapho umlando, amasu kanye nomgubho Ziyathandelana: kusukela kumagugu angaphambi kweSpanishi kuya ekufekethisweni kwase-Europe, ukusuka ku-rebozo kuya ku-charro bun, ukusuka kumaplaza anamabhendi e-mariachi kuya ezingqungqutheleni lapho konke kuqala khona. Ukugqoka i-Jalisco namuhla kusho ukubheka ngokuqondile ezimpandeni zayo futhi, ngokusonteka kwesiketi noma ukuthinta ama-spurs, ukugubha ukuphila kwabo okuqhubekayo.
