Umlando waseShayina lasendulo awuxoxwa kuphela ngababusi bawo, izimpi, kanye nentuthuko yezobuchwepheshe; uphinde ulukwe ube usilika, udaywe ngemibala engokomfanekiso, futhi uthungwe ngamakhulu eminyaka yesiko . Izingubo zamakhosi ahlukahlukene aseShayina zazingaphezu nje kweqoqo lezingubo ezilula: zazibonisa umcabango wefilosofi, isakhiwo senhlalo, ingokomoya, kanye nobuzwe. Ukuze ujule kakhulu kulesi siko, ungahlola okwengeziwe mayelana nokushintshana kwamasiko phakathi kweMpumalanga neNtshonalanga.
Kusukela ezingutsheni zobukhosi kuya ezingutsheni zemikhosi zesifunda, ucezu ngalunye lwalulandisa indaba eyingqayizivele ngomuntu olugqokile . Ezweni elinobungcweti obujulile elinethonya elinamandla lamaConfucian namaTao, izingubo zazingeyona into yokunethezeka kodwa zaziyisidingo esingokomfanekiso nesimele. Emakhulwini eminyaka, imfashini yaseShayina yathuthuka ngokuklama, izinto zokwakha, kanye nenhloso, yazivumelanisa nezinguquko zezombusazwe, amasiko, kanye nobuhle.
Umsuka nezisekelo zezingubo zesiShayina zendabuko
Imfashini eShayina yasendulo inezimpande ezisukela eminyakeni engaphezu kuka-3000 . Enye yezitayela ezihlala isikhathi eside futhi ezimele kakhulu yiHanfu , eyaze yabizwa ngokuthi eyaseMbusini Ophuzi odumile. Le ngubo, eyayigqokwa kakhulu yizicukuthwane, yayenziwe ngesilika—indwangu eyatholwa, ngokusho kwenganekwane, nguLeizu, umkaMbusi Ophuzi—futhi yayinezingxenye ezimbili: i- yi (ingubo ende efika emadolweni, egoqekayo) kanye ne- chang (isiketi esifika emaqakaleni noma ibhulukwe elincane). Uma ungathanda ukufunda kabanzi ngezingubo zesimanje, ungavakashela isihloko sezingubo zaseShayina.
Ngesikhathi sobukhosi bakwaShang, amadayi aqinile njengemifino eluhlaza nemibala eyinhloko ayesevele esetshenziswa , yize ayenqunyelwe amasu angaleso sikhathi. Kulawo makhulu eminyaka okuqala, izingubo zaziyindlela yokubonisa ubuhle nengokomoya. Ngokusho kobuTao kanye ne-cosmology yaseShayina, imibala kanye nezimo zazinezincazelo ezithile. Isibonelo, emndenini wakwaQin, umnyama waba umbala wamandla ngoba wawufanekisela amanzi ngaphakathi kwenkolelo-mbono yezinto ezinhlanu.
Ukufinyelela imibala ethile kanye nezesekeli kwakulinganiselwe ngokwesimo senhlalo . Nakuba umbusi wayekwazi ukugqoka izigqoko ezihlotshiswe nge-jade, izikhulu zazigqoka imihlobiso yethusi. Lokhu kwehluka okubonakalayo kwakubalulekile ekugcineni ubuholi obuqinile benhlalo yaseShayina yombuso.
I-Hanfu nokuziphendukela kwemvelo kwayo ngokusebenzisa amakhosi
I-Hanfu yayingeyona nje imfashini edlulayo: yahlala isikhathi eside, ngokushintshashintsha, phakathi namakhosi amaningi . Isikhathi ngasinye sanyathelisa isitayela sayo kule ngubo, eye yavumelana nezimo futhi yamelana namakhulu eminyaka oshintsho.
- Ubukhosi bakwa-Han (206 BC-220 AD): Lapha, u-Hanfu wahlanganiswa njengesithonjana sikazwelonke. Abesilisa nabesifazane babegqoka imiklamo efanayo, ehlukaniswa ngombala nezinto zokwakha. Isitayela semikhono ebanzi, izingubo ze-crossover ezinezingqimba eziningi, nemibala emnyama, ikakhulukazi emnyama nebomvu, yaduma.
- Ubukhosi baseTang (618-907): Njengoba ibhekwa njengenkathi yegolide, yavumela imfashini enemibala egqamile futhi enesibindi. Abesifazane babegqoka ukhololo oluvulekile oluveza ama-cleavage, iziketi ezigelezayo ezinamaphethini ejometri, nezimonyo ezisindayo, kuyilapho amadoda egqoke amajazi asemthethweni anamakholola ayindilinga namabhuzu esikhumba. Ithonya lamasiko leSilk Road laletha izindwangu ezintsha namadayi.
- Ubukhosi Bengoma (960-1279): Amathrendi amaningi e-Tang avuselelwe, ajwayelaniswa nokuhluzeka okwengeziwe. Izingubo ezifana ne-'beizi' (i-light cape) zivele, nemibala yakudala efana nebomvu yama-emperors nezikhulu idlangile. Ukufekethiswa ngezimbali ezinjengama-peonies neminduze kwakuvamile.
- Ubukhosi bakwaYuan (1271-1368): Njengoba amaMongol ephethe, izingubo ezifana ne-'zhisunfu ', ezifana ne-shenyi kodwa ezifushane, zamukelwa. Imibala enjengomhlophe, oluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, nobomvu obomvu yayikhethwa. Isitayela saqala ukwenza lula ngokubukeka.
- Ubukhosi baseMing (1368-1644): Lesi sikhathi siphawule ukubuyela ekuthuthukisweni kwe-Han. Imfashini yabesifazane yamukele imikhono emincane namabhulawusi okugoqa. Iziketi eziphothiwe zazuza ukuvelela futhi i-cape ethile yobuhle obukhulu eyayihlukile ngaleso sikhathi yaduma.
- Ubukhosi buka-Qing (1644-1912): Ibuswa amaManchus, yadala ukugqashuka okukhulu. Inqubomgomo ye-'tifayifu' yabekwa, okwaphoqa ama-Han Chinese ukuthi ashintshe izingubo zawo nezitayela zezinwele ukuze asebenzise ubuhle besiManchu. I-Hanfu yavinjelwa ngokusemthethweni, yathathelwa indawo izingubo ezifana ne-Qipao ne-Changshan. Amadoda kwakudingeka ukuthi aphuce amabunzi awo futhi afake umluko omude ('umugqa' odumile).
Amamodeli amele: Qipao, Hanfu, Changshan nokuningi
Ngaphandle kweHanfu, imfashini yendabuko yaseShayina inezinye izitayela ezintathu eziyisisekelo: iQipao, iChangshan, neShenyi . Ngayinye ibonisa isikhathi esithile somlando kanye nokusetshenziswa okuthile, kusukela emikhosini kuya empilweni yansuku zonke.
- I-Qipao (eyaziwa nangokuthi i-Cheongsam): Yavela e-Qing Dynasty futhi yayigqokwa abesifazane baseManchu. Kwakuyijazi elide, eliqondile elinokhololo oluphakeme kanye nemifantu emaceleni. Emakhulwini eminyaka adlule, ikakhulukazi ngemva kuka-1920, yajwayelaniswa nezindinganiso zaseNtshonalanga, yaba ifaneleka kakhulu, yaba mfushane, futhi isebenzisa izinto ezintsha ezinjengoboya, ivelvet, nezindwangu zokwenziwa.
- Changshan: Ingubo yabesilisa ehlanganisa ibhulukwe nejakhethi 'tangzhuang', egqokwa kakhulu emishadweni, oNcibijane nasemingcwabeni. Yamukelwa ngemva kokuwa kwe-Qing Dynasty njengophawu lukamazisi oseluphinde lwasetshenziswa kuze kube namuhla.
- UShenyi: Isetshenziswe phakathi kwekhulu le-14 nele-17. Yenziwe nge-ramie, isitshalo sase-Asia, yayiphawuleka ngesashi layo nemikhono ebanzi. Yayifanekisela ikhalenda ngamaphaneli ayebhekisela ezinkathini zonyaka nezinyanga zonyaka. Kwakujwayelekile ngenkathi ye-Ming.
- I-Pien-fu: Umfaniswano womkhosi ubungcweti ngesikhathi soBukhosi Bakwa-Han, ohlanganisa ingubo efika emadolweni nebhulukwe elifika emaqakaleni, ephelezelwa isigqoko nebhande lokuhlobisa.
Imfashini yendabuko kuzinhlanga ezincane
IShayina ngokusemthethweni inamaqembu ezinhlanga angu-56 aqashelwayo, ngalinye linesitayela salo esihlukile sokugqoka . Ezindaweni eziningi zasemakhaya, lezi zingubo zisagqokwa nsuku zonke, okubonisa amasiko asendulo amakhulu eminyaka.
- Usuku: Izingubo eziphefumulelwe yi-Southeast Asia. Abesifazane bagqoka iziketi eziqinile ezinde namahembe afakiwe, amadoda agqoka amajakhethi angenakhola anamabhulukwe antofontofo.
- I-Tibetans: Kumelwe bazivumelanise nesimo sezulu esibi kakhulu. Bagqoka amakepisi oboya noma oboya angaboshelwa kalula okhalweni. Abesifazane bahlobisa izinwele zabo ngesiliva, i-coral kanye nobucwebe be-turquoise.
- Ama-Uighurs: Ithonywe yi-Islam kanye noSilk Road. Abesifazane bagqoka izingubo zikasilika ofekethisiwe ezinemibala ebomvu negolide, kuyilapho amadoda egqoka ama-caftan anamajazi aminyene ('chapan') nezigqoko zendabuko 'ze-doppa'.
- Zhuang: Izimpahla zokugqoka ngokuvamile ziluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka okumnyama, nezingubo ezenziwe ngesandla kusetshenziswa amasu okuphotha kanye nokufekethiswa. Abesifazane abagqoke amajakhethi angenakhola kanye namaduku ekhanda, amadoda agqoke amasudi alula nezigqoko.
Izimpahla zokugqoka e-Beijing Opera: Art on Stage
Ngaphandle kokusetshenziswa kwansuku zonke, imfashini yaseShayina yafinyelela ekubonakaleni kwayo kobuciko okuphezulu kakhulu ezingutsheni ze-Beijing Opera . Lolu hlobo lwezingubo, olubizwa ngokuthi 'xingtou' noma 'juzhuang', luhlanganisa izinto ezivela ezigodlweni ezahlukene ukuze zakhe izingubo ezikhangayo, ezihlotshiswe ngesandla ngegolide, isiliva, kanye nezintambo ezinemibala eminingi.
Yonke imibala, ukwakheka, kanye nokuhlobisa kunenjongo emangalisayo . Ingubo ye-python, isibonelo, imelela amandla ombuso. Izingubo ezisemthethweni zezikhulu zikahulumeni zibonisa isikhundla sazo ngezindwangu ezifekethisiwe. Izembatho zempi ezenziwe ngesitayela (kao) zojenene ziqinisa amandla negunya labo esiteji. Ngisho nabalingiswa abancane banezingubo ezithile, njenge-xuezi, ingubo eguquguqukayo egqokwa ngemibala ehlukahlukene ukukhombisa ubuntu nezindima zomphakathi.
Ngemva kwamashumi eminyaka yokucindezelwa kwamasiko, ikakhulukazi ngesikhathi seNguquko Yamasiko ngekhulu lama-20, isiko lendabuko lancishwa isithunzi . Kodwa-ke, kusukela ngawo-2000, kube nokunyakaza komphakathi okukhula okuqhutshwa yintsha efuna ukuphinda ixhumane nobunikazi bayo bokhokho.
Namuhla, amapulatifomu afana neWeibo neDouyin (i-Chinese TikTok) anemibono eyizigidigidi ehlobene neHanfu . Imicimbi efana neNational Hanfu Day kanye nezinhlelo zikahulumeni zisekela ukukhuthazwa kwayo. Akuyona into engavamile ukubona intsha emadolobheni amakhulu ihambahamba eHanfu ngenkathi iphuza itiye le-bubble noma iya emicimbini ye-cosplay igqoke lezi zingubo zomlando.
Lokhu kuvuselelwa akugcini eShayina kuphela. Ezindaweni ezifana neMalaysia, iKorea, iSpain, neFrance, iHanfu ivele emibukisweni, emibukisweni yemfashini, ngisho nasezingxoxweni zamasiko. Imikhiqizo efana neDolce & Gabbana yethule amaqoqo aphefumulelwe yiyo, futhi abaklami bamazwe ngamazwe bafaka izinto zemfashini yaseShayina ezintweni abazidalile.
Ngaphezu kwalokho, iHanfu ibilokhu ifundwa ngezifundo zemfundo, iqhathaniswa nezingubo zaseYurophu, kanye nezihloko ezikumagazini bemfashini bamazwe ngamazwe. Konke lokhu kubonisa ukuthi okungaphezu nje kwengubo, ingubo yendabuko namuhla iwuphawu oluphilayo lwefa kanye nokuziqhenya ngobuzwe.
Ukuvela kwezingubo zokugqoka e-China yasendulo uhambo oludlula imfashini ukuze luxhumane nezindinganiso ezijulile, amasiko, kanye nemicabango yempucuko yasendulo. Kusukela ezimpahleni ezicolisisiwe ze-Peking Opera kuya ekugqokeni okumibalabala kwabantu bezinhlanga ezincane, okuhlanganisa i-Hanfu eyisakhiwo sodumo kanye ne-Qipao yesimanje, zonke lezi zingubo zishiye uphawu olungenakucimeka. Ngenxa yokuvuselelwa kwala masiko, isikhathi esidlule sibuyele emfashini, siqinisekisa ukuthi umlando ungabuye ugqokiswe.