I-kimono iyingubo ehlanganisa ubuciko, amasu, kanye nezimpawu. Nakuba manje isigcinelwe imicimbi ekhethekile, isamile isithonjana se-quintessential sezingubo zaseJapanIfomu layo elibonakala lilula lifihla izwe lezendlalelo, izindwangu, amafindo, nezinkambiso zobuhle ezihlangana namakhulu eminyaka omlando.
Uma ukhangwa isiko lamaJapane, lapha uzothola umhlahlandlela ophelele: kusukela ekuziphendukeleni kwayo kanye nezinhlobo kuya yenziwa kanjani, isetshenziswa nini nokuthi yiziphi izesekeli ezihambisana nayoUzobona nokuthi kungani i-motif, imibala, nezinkathi zonyaka kubaluleke kakhulu, nokuthi kanjani geishas and maikos iphakamise ibe ubuciko bansuku zonke.
Iyini i-kimono futhi iyini indima yayo namuhla?
Igama elithi kimono lingahunyushwa ngokuthi "izinto ezigqokiwe." Empeleni, namuhla iqoka ingubo yomdabu umugqa oqondile, weqe ngaphambili futhi uboshwe nge-obiNakuba izingubo zansuku zonke zamaJapane ngokuvamile zingezaseNtshonalanga, i<em>kimono isagqokwa emishadweni, emingcwabeni, ekuthweseni iziqu, emikhosini yetiye, ngoNcibijane, nasemikhosini; iphinde iphile emisebenzini efana geishas, abalingisi betiyetha yakudala noma ubupristi.
Lesi siqeshana senziwe ngomqulu owodwa wendwangu futhi sifakwe emzimbeni ngama-pleats, ngaphandle kobukhulu obujwayelekile. Ubulula bayo obusobala buyacasha imithetho yokuziphatha, izendlalelo zangaphansi, izesekeli namafindo ezakha ingubo yendabuko yaseJapan yobuhle, i-kitsuke. Futhi qaphela: uhlangothi lwesobunxele luhlala luwela kwesokudla; okuphambene kugcinelwe umufi.
Ukusuka kwimvelaphi kuye ebukhazikhazini: umlando wezendlalelo nemibala
Ngaphambi kwe-kimono: amathonya namafomu okuqala
Kusukela kudala, izingubo ezenziwe ngemicu yezitshalo zazisetshenziselwa ukulwa namakhaza. Ngethonya lamaShayina ngesikhathi se-Yamato, i-Asuka, ne-Nara, iJapane yamukela sericulture kanye nama-hanfu silhouettesKule ndawo yokuzalela, kwavela i-kosode, ingubo enemikhono emincane eyasuka yagqokwa ngaphakathi yaze yagqokwa ngaphandle ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, kanye ne-osode, enemikhono ebanzi.
U-Heian: Ukuthunga Okuqondile Nokwendlaleka
E-Heian, umkhuba wokusika indwangu ibe amaphaneli angunxande athungwe ngaphandle kokulandela isimo somzimba waba yinsakavukela. Le ndlela, esasetshenziswa nanamuhla, ivumele osayizi abajwayelekile nezinhlanganisela ezinezingqimba. Abesifazane basenkantolo badume kakhulu i-jūni-hitoe, isethi yezigaba ezifika kweziyishumi nambili, lapho ukuvumelana kwechromatic nesizini kwaba ukhiye wokucwengwa.
Izimpi, ukusebenza kanye nombala
Phakathi kukaKamakura noMuromachi imikhono yafushaniswa ukuze isebenze, i-kosode iwine umgwaqo futhi ama-palettes aphilaEnkundleni yempi, imindeni yayibonisa ukwethembeka ngemibala nemifanekiso; ngesikhathi esifanayo, i-obi yakhula isikhathi eside futhi yadonswa ngemuva ukuze kube lula ukunyakaza.
I-Edo: i-kimono ihlanganisiwe futhi imithetho ye-obi
Phakathi nenkathi ye-Edo, i-kimono yaba ingubo yesizwe. amazinga okuhlelekile, ama-crests omndeni (i-kamon) nezinhlobo zendwanguI-obi yanda futhi yaba isizinda; kwavela inqwaba yothayi noma ama-musubi, futhi kwavela imboni yendwangu ewubukhazikhazi eNishijin (Kyoto). Nakuba kwakunemithetho ewubukhazikhazi kubantu abavamile, yayichuma. okumpunga okuyinkimbinkimbi nokunsundu kanye nokuphrinta okungaphansi efihle ukunethezeka emininingwaneni.
Isimanjemanje: ukusuka ekukhuleni kweNtshonalanga kuya ekuvukeni kwayo kabusha
Ngokubuyiselwa kweMeiji, uMbuso waphusha ukwamukelwa kwe Umfaniswano waseNtshonalanga kwezokuphatha, amasosha nasezikoleniI-kimono yayishiyelwa ukugqokwa okusemthethweni nemigubho. Engxenyeni yokuqala yenkathi ye-Showa, izintela zikasilika kanye nesimo sezulu sangaphambi kwempi kwenziwa lula imiklamo; ngemva kwempi, kwabuya ukukhiqizwa okukhulu, futhi kamuva, kwafika imicu yokwenziwa eyayithengeka kakhudlwana. Namuhla, i-kimono ihambisana nezingubo zaseNtshonalanga, iqashelwa imicimbi, futhi isigcawu esisha siyasichaza kabusha ngezikhwama, amateki noma izingxube zasemadolobheni ngaphandle kwezakhiwo.
Kwenziwa kanjani: kusuka kumqulu wendwangu kuya emsebenzini ohlala izizukulwane
Ukukhiqizwa kuqala nge-tan, umqulu ongaba ngamamitha angu-12-13 ubude no-36-40 cm ububanzi, osikwa phakathi. amaphaneli angama-rectangular ayisishiyagalombili Okumi komzimba, imikhono, intamo, nangaphambili. Ubukhulu bunqunywa ngama-seams nobude bephaneli, futhi okweqile kulungiswa ukugqoka nge-pleats. Asetshenziswa kuma-kimono omkhosi we-geisha noma i-maiko. ababili noma abathathu kanjalo nama-hems ahlanganisiwe.
Ngokwesiko, usilika uyindlovukazi, nakuba kukhona okuhlukile ukotini (yukata) futhi, namuhla, i-polyester noma i-rayon ukunciphisa izindleko. Isistimu ye-modular ivumela khumula futhi ubuyisele izingxenye ezigugile, ukwandisa ukuphila kwengubo futhi kube lula ifa layo ezizukulwaneni ngezizukulwane.
Izilinganiso ezijwayelekile kanye ne-anatomy yengubo
Izilinganiso zamanje zifaka ubude obusondele ku-158 cm kanye nobubanzi behlombe nemikhono obungamasentimitha angamashumi amathathu, nokuwa komkhono kuyahlukahluka kuye ngohlobo lwe-kimono. Izici zangaphambili i-sodeguchi (umlomo womkhono), i-eri (intamo), okumi (umugqa wangaphambili) kanye ne-maemigoro (iphaneli eyinhloko); ngemuva, i-yuki (umkhono+ wehlombe), miyatsukuchi (ukuvulwa kwekhwapha) noma i-fuki (ukuvikela umphetho), phakathi kwamanye amagama ozowabona ashiwo yizingcweti nezitolo ezikhethekile.
Izinhlobo ze-kimono: kusukela kokubukisa kakhulu kuya kwansuku zonke
I-Tomesode: Isimilo Kwabesifazane Abashadile
Yingubo esemthethweni kakhulu yabesifazane abashadile. Ingemuva lingaba mnyama (kurotomesode) noma umbala osangulukile (irotomesode), kanye izizathu zibekelwe ingxenye engezansiI-kurotomesode igqokwa emishadweni yizihlobo eziseduze, njalo ngama-kamon amahlanu; irotomesode ivumela ijazi lengalo elilodwa, amathathu, noma amahlanu futhi ihlanganisa izikhathi ezisemthethweni. Imikhono mifishane futhi ijwayele ukuba mifishane ngokuya ngeminyaka.
I-Furisode: I-Manga Endizela Amantombazane Angashadile
I-Furisode ilingana ngokusemthethweni kwabesifazane abasha abangashadile: imikhono emide kakhulu kanye nemibhalo egqamile kuyo yonke i-kimono. Kunobude obuthathu obuyinhloko (ko-, chū-, kanye ne-ō-furisode), lobu bamuva yilobo obunemikhono eseduze kakhulu namaqakala. Zigqokwa ngezikhathi zobudala, uSuku Lonyaka Omusha, imishado (uma intombazane ingashadile), noma imikhosi yetiye yokuqala. UMaikos uvame ukuwagqoka, anethonya elihlukile.
I-Homongi: iyashintshashintsha futhi inhle ohambeni
I-Semi-formal ngokuzenzakalelayo, ingathuthukiswa ngama-blazons. Uphawu lwayo luthi iphethini eqhubekayo egijima kuma-seams (eba) futhi idlulele emikhonweni nasemahlombe. Ama-Geisha avame ukuwugqoka nge-kamon emadilini. Iwumdlalo omuhle kakhulu wetiyetha, izidlo zakusihlwa ezikhethekile, noma imigubho edinga ukwenziwa ngokusemthethweni ngaphandle kokweqisa.
UTsukesage: umfowabo osebenzayo we-hōmongi
Yazalwa njengendlela engabizi kakhulu kune-hōmongi. Igcina ama-motif emikhonweni kanye nengxenye engezansi, kodwa imiklamo ayiqhubeki phezu kwama-seams, okwenza inqubo yonge kakhulu. Ngaphandle kwejazi lezikhali, i-semi-formal; ngesinye ngemuva, singagqokwa ngezikhathi ezinzima kakhulu. I-Nagoya obi noma i-fukuro yamukelekile; ungalokothi u-maru-obi, osemthethweni kakhulu.
I-Iromuji ne-mofuku: ukuzola, umcimbi kanye nokulila
I-Iromuji ingumbala owodwa (hhayi omnyama), ngaphandle kwamaphethini ahlanganisiwe; ingalukwa nge-jacquard (rinzu) noma i-crepe (chirimen). Ifanele izimo eziningi, ikakhulukazi imikhosi yetiye, futhi nge-kamon, izuza ngokusemthethweni. mofuku Kuyisililo esimnyama esinezingubo ezinhlanu zezikhali, ezigqokwa umndeni oseduze emingcwabeni nasezikhumbuzweni; okunye ongakhetha kukho imibala ethulisiwe ene-obi nezesekeli ezimnyama.
I-Shiromuku nesethi yomakoti
Emishadweni yamaShinto, i-shiromuku iyagqama, uchikake omhlophe qwa, Umphetho ophekiwe kanye nehadiwe ehlanganiswe ngombala. Ingase ihambisane ne-wataboshi noma i-tsunokakushi ekhanda. Emadilini, kuvame ukushintshela ekubeni uchikake we-brocade ebomvu ecacile noma amanye ama-auspicious shades.
I-Komon: iphethini encane engakahleleki
Iqashelwa yi-motif yayo encane ephindaphindiwe kuyo yonke indwangu. Kuyinto engakahleleki, nakuba a Edo komon -ukugoba okungabonakali okubonakala kushelelezi uma ukude—kungafanelana nomthetho we-iromuji, ngisho ne-kamon. Nge-obi enhle, ilungele phuma uyodla noma uhambe.
I-Yukata: ihlobo nokuphumula
Ingalayishiwe futhi yenziwe ngekotini noma imicu yezitshalo, i-yukata iyingubo engasindi eyi-quintessential. Igqokwa emikhosini yasehlobo, i-onsen, ne-ryokan, nge obi hanhaba kanye nezicathulo ze-geta (ngokuvamile ngaphandle kwe-tabi). Namuhla, iza ngemibala ehlukahlukene, kusukela ku-classic eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka nokumhlophe kuya eminikelo yesimanje.
I-obi: ibhande, igugu nolimi
Ukusuka entanjeni esebenzayo kuye kucezu lwenkanyezi
Ekuqaleni i-obi yayiyintambo elula yokuvala i-kosode. E-Edo yanwetshwa yaba isici esimaphakathi sobuhle, enezibopho eziyinkimbinkimbi ngokwengeziwe ezakwenza kudingeke ukuyithwala emhlane. Ukukhiqizwa kwe-obi kanokusho kugxilwe e-Nishijin: okuphawuleka kakhulu yi Nishiki (imicu yegolide nesiliva) kanye ne zuzure (i-tapestry), zombili zenani elikhulu.
Musubi: izibopho nomlingiswa
Kunamakhulu ezindlela zokubopha. Phakathi ezivame kakhulu namuhla i-taiko-musubi (isigubhu, esijwayelekile emishadweni nasemicimbini esemthethweni), bunqu (ibhokisi, elibonakala kakhulu nge-yukata), hhayi ukuchi (umlomo wegobolondo, udakiwe) kanye otateya (umcibisholo, ohambisana nomakoti namantombazane amancane ezenzweni ezinesizotha). Isethi igcwaliswa yi- iminyaka yobudala (iduku elisiza ukulungisa), i obi-jime (intambo yokuhlobisa) kanye ne obi-dome (i-brooch).
Ukugqoka kahle: izendlalelo, imithetho nezikole
Ubuciko be-kitsuke budinga ukuzijwayeza. Ngaphansi kwe-kimono hamba i-hadajuban (ihembe elincanyana) kanye ne-susoyoke (isiketi esingaphansi) noma inhlanganisela; phezulu, i-nagajuban, i-neckline yayo ingahlotshiswa nge-han-eri. Yonke into ihlanganiswe ndawonye ne-koshi-himo kanye ne-date-jime ukuze kwakhiwe i-silhouette eyisicaba. I-tabi emhlophe kanye nokuwela okufanele ngaphambili kubalulekile.
Ukubekwa okuhle kushiya i-V ehlanzekile entanyeni, imibukiso kancane ingquza yentamo futhi ikhombisa ubude obuphelele be-obi-age. Akuvamile ukuya ezikoleni ze-kitsuke ukuze uphumelele; ukugqoka ingubo ehlelekile kanye ne-obi eyinkimbinkimbi yedwa kungaba umsebenzi wabantu ababili.
Izinkathi zonyaka, ukunambitha kanye nokusemthethweni
Ngena nangaphandle kolayini: i-tumbae, awase kanye ne-usimomo
Ikhalenda liyabusa. Kusukela ngo-Okthoba kuya ku-Ephreli isetshenziswa awase (lined); ngoMeyi nango-Okthoba ihamba ngokuvumelana nesimo sezulu. NgoJuni noSepthemba kuyangena i-hitoe (engalayishiwe); maphakathi nehlobo, usumono ku-ro (ukukhanya) noma i-sha (i-coarser) gauze, evame ukuhlanganisa izesekeli zezinto ezifanayo. I-Geishas iyinhloko yalokhu kujikeleza.
Imibala yesizini kanye ne-motifs
Impilo/ukufa, ubulili, iminyaka, ikilasi kanye nokusemthethweni
Ngokulandela isiphakamiso sikaLiza Dalby, i-kimono ihlelwa ngokuhambisana nezimbazo ezinkulu: ukuphila ngokumelene nokufa (ukuwela okuphambene nomufi), sexo (banezinketho eziningi kanye nemikhono evulekile), ubudala (imikhono iba mfishane njengoba ikhula), ukunambitheka kanye nesimo (kusuka ekukhazimuleni kobusha kuya ku- iki ecwengisisiwe) kanye ukwakheka. Izinto zokwakha, inombolo ye-kamon, umbala wangemuva, nendawo embozwe iphethini kuchaza okwakamuva. Isiphetho sabesifazane se-etiquette yi- kuromontsuki: ingemuva elimnyama, amajazi amahlanu wezingalo nama-motifs kuphela engxenyeni engezansi.
Umehluko nge-kimono yesilisa
Indoda iwe iqonde, nge imikhono emifishane ethungelwa emzimbeni, imibala ehluzekile kanye ne-obi emincane (i-kaku yomkhosi, i-heko engakahleleki). Emikhosini, ihlanganiswa ne hakamaIsethi emnyama ene-kamon emihlanu iyona ehamba phambili ekugqokeni okusemthethweni. Ehlobo, i-yukata nayo iyisinqumo esihle.
Izindwangu namasu: lapho indwangu ingumlingiswa oyinhloko
I-Sakizome: izintambo ezidaywe ngaphambi kokwelukwa
Yilapho izakhi zejometri kanye ne-symmetrical zingena khona. Ziyacwebezela tsumugi (usilika oluhlaza ophothelwe ngesandla, onokwakheka okungavamile kanye ne-rustic charm, ilungele ukuzijabulisa), kasuri (Ikat yesiJapane enesici iyafiphala lapho idaya i-warp kanye/noma i-weft ngaphambi kwe-loom), i omeshi (i-silk crepe enezintambo ezi-waxed kanye ne-cross weft) kanye jofu (ilineni elihle). Inzuzo yayo: umbala ohlangene kabili nokuqina okukhulu; ububi bawo: ukungasebenzi kahle njengoba kungewona usilika ocwebezelayo, odayiwe.
I-Atozome: umlingo wokudaya ngemva kokuluka
Kuhlanganisa yonke into kusukela ekucwilisweni nasekupendeni kwamahhala kuya kumasu anezindawo ezibekelwe. Inkanyezi yi wena, yasungulwa cishe ngo-1700, esebenzisa ama-paste aphikisayo ukuze iphrofayili futhi ivumele imininingwane emihle kakhulu nemibala ezinzile. Kukhona i-Kyō yūzen (i-Kyoto, engokomfanekiso kakhudlwana) kanye ne-Kaga yūzen (Kanazawa, i-naturalistic ne-exuberant).
El katazome I-paste isetshenziswa ngezifanekiso zephepha (katagami) ezilungiselelwe ngejusi le-persimmon ukumelana; ngenxa yalokhu, i komon kanye no-Edo komon yephethini encane. Ekugcineni, i shibori Ihlanganisa amasu okubopha, ukucwenga noma ukuthunga indwangu ukuze ubeke izindawo ngaphambi kokudaya, ngemiphumela ephilayo neyaziswa kakhulu i-yukata engavamile, ama-linings kanye ne-obi.
I-Family Crests: ubunikazi obugqokile
I-Los inyoni Bahlonza imigqa kanye ne-okiya, futhi bavela kuwo wonke ama-kimono asemthethweni (kokubili abesilisa nabesifazane). Inani lama-crest likala i-etiquette (1, 3, noma 5). Ezifundeni ze-geisha, uzobona izifanekiselo zabo noren, izibani kanye nezimpawu, kanye nangemuva kwama-kimono abo asemthethweni.
I-Geishas ne-Maikos: I-Hikizuri kanye Nobuhle Bempilo Yansuku zonke
Ikhabethe le-geisha lochwepheshe lihlanganisa ama-kimono adaywa ngemva kokulukwa futhi enziwe ngosilika wekhwalithi ephezulu. Ngezikhathi ezikhethekile, zibukeka zizinhle. ukurohikizuri (abamnyama, amade namajazi ezikhali), kuyilapho kusukela esikhathini esithile sonyaka baba irohikizuri (umbala). I-hikizuri yinde kunokujwayelekile, nge umsila olandelanayo (susohiki) futhi, edilini, isakazeka ngaphesheya kwe-tatami.
Izingubo zikaMaikos uhlobo lwe-hikizuri furisode nge-darari obi ewela cishe emaqakaleni kanye ne-okobo (izimbadada eziphakeme). I-kimono yangaphakathi ebomvu enemibala emhlophe kanye nomnsalo we-han-dariri esigabeni sabo sokufunda ichaza isitayela sabo. Emgwaqweni, ukuze bagweme ukudonsa, babamba indwangu eyengeziwe (i-hashori) ngesandla sabo sobunxele, beveza ngajuban kanye nokunikeza ukuthinta kwesithonjana.
Izingubo zangaphandle nezinye izesekeli
I-Haori: ibhantshi elifudumeza futhi elihlobisa
I-haori igqokwa phezu kwe-kimono. Kungaba yinde (okusemthethweni kakhulu) noma kube mfushane (okungavamile), futhi ingavalwa nge hauri-himo futhi yethulwa ngokumnyama nge-kamon (kuromontsuki haori) emicimbini, noma ngemibala ne-shibori ukuze kugujwe. Yaqala phakathi kwamadoda futhi yaduma phakathi kwabesifazane ngenxa yengxenye entsha ye-geisha.
I-Michiyuki ne-dōchūgi: amajazi omgwaqo namakhaza
I-michiyuki, ubude bekota ezintathu kanye nentamo engunxande, iyasebenza njenge-raincoat esesitayeleni, iphelele ngaphezu kwe-tomesode, hōmongi, noma i-tsukesage. I-dōchūgi emfishane, enovolo idonswe njenge-kimono futhi inikeza isivikelo esihle sasebusika, nakuba iyinto evamile.
Izambulela, ama-parasols nabalandeli
Ngezinsuku zemvula noma libalele, akukho ukushoda I-kasa (izambulela zendabuko) kanye ne-higasa (ama-parasols) Yenziwe ngoqalo nephepha noma usilika. Emadilini nasemidansweni, umlandeli ogoqayo awu Ayihlukaniseki; i-sensu encane isetshenziselwa ukushaywa umoya ehlobo.
Ukunakekelwa, isitoreji kanye nentengo
Ama-kimono enani eliphakeme ahlanzwa ngawo arai-hari (ukuqaqa, ukuwashwa, nokuhlanganisa kabusha), inqubo yobuciko ebizayo echaza ingxenye yokuncipha kwayo njengengubo yansuku zonke. Namuhla, izingcezu eziningi zanamuhla zivumela ukuhlanza okomile noma ukugeza okuthambile (ikakhulukazi ukotini noma ama-synthetics) esikhwameni sokuwasha, ngaphandle kwesomisi noku-ayina ngendwangu phakathi kwabo. Zigcinwa zigoqwe tatōshi futhi isakazwa ngezikhathi ezithile zonyaka.
I-kimono yokunethezeka ingafinyelela izibalo ezinkulu, ngokuvamile ehambisana nayo obi, tabi, zori nezinye izesekeli. Kungakho ukuqasha abantu ngezikhathi ezithile kuvame kakhulu, ikakhulukazi entsheni, noma ukuthenga amasekeni. Imbuyekezo, uma inakekelwa kahle, i-kimono kasilika edayiwe utshalomali olungaphelelwa yisikhathi.
Umthelela womhlaba kanye nezincazelo kabusha
Ukuvulwa kweJapan emhlabeni kwaqubula ubuJaponism eYurophu naseMelika. Abaklami abanjengo UPaul Poiret yahlanganisa ama-silhouette axegayo aphefumulelwe i-kimono, futhi ingubo yaze yenza uphawu lwayo ebhayisikobho. E-Japan, izinhlelo ezifana Kimono Jack kanye nezitolo ezixuba isiko nesimanje ziye zakhuthaza ukubuyela kwabo emgwaqweni, ngezinye izikhathi namateki, amakepisi noma ama-contemporary brooches ku-obi-jimeAzikho izinkolelo-ze lapho inhloso kuwukukujabulela.
Indawo yonke ye-kimono inkulu, kodwa ngokuqonda okucacile kwezinhlobo, okusemthethweni, izinkathi zonyaka, izindwangu nezesekeli, kulula ukuqonda ukuthi kungani. Le ngubo idlula imfashini futhi iyaqhubeka nokushaya Ezindaweni ezingcwele, ezinkundleni zemidlalo yaseshashalazini, ezindaweni zokuhlala ze-geisha, nemikhosi yomndeni. Phakathi kwesu lokuluka kanye nesenzo sokubopha i-obi, amakhulu eminyaka amasiko asaboniswa ngokuziqhenya nanamuhla.
